THE BA­SICS OF TIME

Rules For The Modern Man - - Rules For The Modern Man -

Time is a con­cept that has re­mained rather con­sis­tent through­out the de­vel­op­ing civil­i­sa­tions of the world. The Egyp­tians, us­ing sun­di­als, split the day into 10 parts with two parts for twi­light, and night time the same way. The Sume­ri­ans and In­di­ans had the day split into 12 or 24 parts. In China, the day was sim­i­larly con­structed into 12 parts of two hours each. The rea­son for 12? The lu­nar cy­cle, by which farm­ers would plan their har­vest and plant­ing sea­sons.

Re­gard­less of what watch you use, be it a Ca­sio or a Breguet, dig­i­tal or ana­logue, watches have evolved very slowly over the cen­turies. Wa­ter clocks gave way to clock tow­ers and grand­fa­ther clocks, which in turn be­came com­pacted into Nurem­berg eggs and even­tu­ally fob and wrist watches. Even the in­ter­nals of a watch, no mat­ter how sim­ple or com­pli­cated, works much the same way. Every watch has a power source, whether elec­tric or me­chan­i­cal, a gear train and a dis­play method.

THE ES­SEN­TIALS OF WATCH MAK­ING

Talk­ing about watches and don't want to sound like a fool? Here are some tips that will make you sound like a sa­vant, even with an ex­pert watch maker or col­lec­tor.

ALL WATCHES LOSE TIME The per­fect watch that never loses a sec­ond does not ex­ist, even if you count an atomic clock. Me­chan­i­cal watches lose time be­cause they are crafted by hand, and the de­sign of the reg­u­la­tion (the bal­ance and hair­spring) are fit­ted and

Me­chan­i­cal Quartz

The me­chan­i­cal watch is a con­struct of cen­turies of knowl­edge, while quartz time­pieces rep­re­sent a break­ing mile­stone in the world when elec­tron­ics be­gan to rule. Which­ever you pre­fer, it's im­por­tant that you be able to dis­tin­guish be­tween the two. A quick spot test is to ob­serve the sec­onds hand of a watch. If it leaps from sec­ond to sec­ond, it’s most likely a quartz watch. If the sec­ond hand sweeps around the dial, it’s me­chan­i­cal.

ad­justed by hand. Quartz watches lose time for a num­ber of rea­sons, from the cir­cuitry in a watch or even the am­bi­ent tem­per­a­ture.

WA­TER RESISTANT VS WA­TER PROOF No watch is wa­ter proof. Most watches bear a wa­ter re­sis­tance in­di­ca­tion, that sug­gests they have been built to seal the case against wa­ter en­try up to a cer­tain level of pres­sure. Var­i­ous types of watches may of­fer dif­fer­ent lev­els of wa­ter re­sis­tance.

ME­CHAN­I­CAL WATCHES ARE BET­TER Itʼs not a mat­ter of bet­ter or worse, sim­ply a choice and pref­er­ence. Me­chan­i­cal watches of­fer a glimpse into an in­dus­try that has per­sisted for over three cen­turies, while quartz watches are prac­ti­cal ac­ces­sories to­day. Me­chan­i­cal time­pieces do of­fer the ad­van­tage of be­ing re­pairable, even through cen­turies of use.

The term fre­quently comes up in me­chan­i­cal watches. Some com­pa­nies base their watch move­ments upon in­dus­try-wide sup­pli­ers, while oth­ers take it upon them­selves to cre­ate or pro­duce their own watch move­ments. While the lat­ter is cer­tainly more pres­ti­gious (and tends to be priced ac­cord­ingly), the former is more com­mon. ETA is an ubiq­ui­tous name in watch­mak­ing for both quartz and me­chan­i­cal move­ments, and is a highly re­li­able and well-recog­nised source.

OSCILLATION RATE The rate at which a me­chan­i­cal bal­ance os­cil­lates de­ter­mines how it breaks down time into in­cre­men­tal parts per sec­ond for reg­u­la­tion. While a faster rate sug­gests a more ac­cu­rate move­ment, this is not def­i­nite.

SERVICING All me­chan­i­cal watches need to be ser­viced and checked from time to time. Like a car, a tune-up helps to en­sure that all the parts in your watch are work­ing per­fectly. Some brands rec­om­mend send­ing in your watch for repair every three or four years, but in gen­eral, a check every five years should suf­fice.

in-house move­ments

How Watches Work

It starts with an en­ergy source (bat­tery or main­spring) that pow­ers a count­ing and trans­mis­sion stan­dard (a gear train or fre­quency cir­cuit di­vider). Dis­tri­bu­tion of the en­ergy is done via the es­cape­ment (me­chan­i­cal) or step­ping mo­tor (dig­i­tal), and a reg­u­la­tion sys­tem such as a bal­ance and hair­spring or a quartz reg­u­la­tor.

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