DOU­BLE DOWN

Breguet’s 2017 nov­el­ties show­case dif­fer­ent as­pects of the man­u­fac­ture’s tech­ni­cal prow­ess

Singapore Tatler Jewels & Time - - Contents - Text Jamie Tan Pho­tog­ra­phy Ching / green plas­tic sol­diers Styling Char­lene Lee

Breguet shows off tal­ent for both men's and women's watches

Among its di­verse range of nov­el­ties pre­sented at Basel­world this year, Breguet has two high­lights—one for each gen­der— that show­case its watch­mak­ing ca­pa­bil­i­ties.

For the men, there is the Ma­rine Équa­tion Marchante 5887. This is the fore­run­ner to the new Ma­rine col­lec­tion, which Breguet is re­vamp­ing with up­dated aes­thet­ics: New cen­tral lugs and a slim­mer case that re­tains its stepped bezel and fluted case mid­dle.

As the tech­ni­cal flag­ship among the nov­el­ties, the Ma­rine Équa­tion Marchante 5887 houses sev­eral com­pli­ca­tions. Kick­ing things off is the per­pet­ual cal­en­dar, which uses a some­what un­usual for­mat of two aper­tures and a ret­ro­grade hand to dis­play all its in­for­ma­tion. A sim­ple power re­serve in­di­ca­tor at eight o’clock pro­vides con­trast to this. Of course, the man­u­fac­ture has in­cluded the tour­bil­lon reg­u­la­tor—the quin­tes­sen­tial Breguet de­vice—in this watch. It is vis­i­ble through the large aper­ture at five o’clock.

Like the per­pet­ual cal­en­dar, Breguet’s ex­e­cu­tion of the equa­tion of time com­pli­ca­tion is atyp­i­cal. Nor­mally, the equa­tion of time dis­play is a sec­tor that in­di­cates (in min­utes) the dif­fer­ence be­tween ap­par­ent so­lar time and civil time. (In the past, this al­lowed peo­ple to rec­on­cile the dif­fer­ence be­tween the time in­di­cated by a sun­dial and an ac­cu­rate clock.) On the Ma­rine Équa­tion Marchante 5887, how­ever, the blue cen­tral hand dis­plays the ap­par­ent so­lar time im­me­di­ately.

This year’s fem­i­nine coun­ter­point to the Ma­rine Équa­tion Marchante 5887 is the Tra­di­tion Dame 7038 (fac­ing page). Like its other fam­ily mem­bers, the watch show­cases Breguet’s ar­chi­tec­tural ap­proach to both the move­ment’s lay­out and the dis­plays that are in­te­grated into it. The en­tire setup is an­chored by the bar­rel, which has been dec­o­rated with a rosette mo­tif and placed dead cen­tre on the dial. The rest of the dis­plays and com­po­nents around it, mean­while, have been fin­ished with var­i­ous tech­niques to play with light. This is ac­cen­tu­ated by the dif­fer­ent depths that the parts are po­si­tioned at, with the fi­nal re­sult be­ing a com­plex and three-di­men­sional dial.

The two watches un­der­line Breguet’s abil­ity and ver­sa­til­ity in build­ing tech­ni­cal pieces for both men and women without ladies’ watches look­ing like gem-set ver­sions of the men’s. And that’s some­thing that horolophiles are grate­ful for.

From top: Watch­mak­ing is an art at Breguet, whether it’s for men’s or women’s pieces; Ma­rine Équa­tion Marchante 5887.

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