CHOICE CUTS

It may seem trivial, but I was glad to find the restaurant’s commitment to more conscious choices clearly affirmed on the printed menu. For instance, one of the main courses, the wild blue cod, is line-caught off the coast of New Zealand and a certified Friend of the Sea. On the palate, it is hard to fault the choice to serve it glazed with miso-butter, with a simple side of sauteed greens, charred broccolini and soy-glazed shishito peppers for added sweetness.

NO BEEF WITH THE BEEF Meats, such as the 35-day dry-aged grass-fed John Stone Irish beef (right), are the stars at Origin Grill; the restaurant’s interiors are inspired by a train voyage (below)