Green Light

MB&F’S Max­i­m­il­ian Büsser takes on this sea­son’s fash­ion­able Kelly green,

Singapore Tatler - - STYLE - writes Damien Tan

It is hard to imag­ine swiss watch­maker and MB&F founder Max­i­m­il­ian Büsser re­fer­ring to fash­ion run­way trends. But the fact that two of his new re­leases this year fea­ture the trend­ing Kelly green (or Ker­mit green, as other out­lets have un­for­giv­ingly named it), it is an un­canny co­in­ci­dence. The newly launched vari­ants of the Horo­log­i­cal Ma­chine and the Le­gacy Ma­chine Per­pet­ual both fea­ture a deep and in­tense green—on the bezel of the HM7 Aqua­pod and across the dial for the LM Per­pet­ual Cal­en­dar—limited to just 50 pieces each. The Kelly green was named af­ter the Irish greener­ies, with Kelly be­ing a com­mon fam­ily name in the coun­try—so the fact that Irish watch­maker Stephen Mcdon­nell was the bril­liant mind be­hind the LM Per­pet­ual’s pro­pri­etary fool-proof mech­a­nism adds that touch of per­sonal play­ful­ness we have come to ex­pect from MB&F. While the first two it­er­a­tions of the un­usual, jel­ly­fish-re­sem­bling Aqua­pod launched last year were ex­e­cuted in red gold with a black bezel and ti­ta­nium with blue ceramic bezel, MB&F chose to pro­duce this year’s ver­sion in a green that closely mim­ics the strong emer­ald glow of the Su­per­lu­mi­nova-coated hour and minute mark­ings on the dial. The same shade is

When the lights are turned off, the ra­di­ant green seems to glow like a bi­o­lu­mi­nes­cent jel­ly­fish

also seen around the watch’s cen­tral fly­ing tour­bil­lon on the Am­bi­ent Glow Tech­nol­ogy (AGT) Ul­tra pan­els, so when the lights are turned off, the ra­di­ant green seems to glow like a bi­o­lu­mi­nes­cent jel­ly­fish. On top of the ti­ta­nium uni­di­rec­tional ro­tat­ing bezel is a coat of green lac­quer. The sap­phire in­sert is then fixed on top of the bezel, giv­ing the green a “shinier” feel. It is a colour that syn­chro­nises with the aquatic feel of the watch and given the jel­ly­fishin­spired ar­chi­tec­ture, is prob­a­bly clos­est to the Ae­quorea Vic­to­ria species of jel­ly­fish that emits a green bi­o­lu­mi­nes­cence. This emer­ald shade of green can also be seen on the dial of the LM Per­pet­ual, serv­ing as a can­vas to its in­cred­i­ble 581-com­po­nent move­ment. That isn’t the only change though, as the time­piece is now en­dowed with a ti­ta­nium frame to fur­ther high­light the emer­ald hue. This isn’t the first time this shade of green has been seen on an MB&F LM piece, as a sim­i­lar colour is seen on the LM2 Ti­ta­nium from last year and the LM1 MAD Dubai Limited Edi­tion watch edi­tion from 2016.

3D AR­CHI­TEC­TURE The bal­ance wheel and in­di­ca­tion di­als of the LM Per­pet­ual Cal­en­dar of­fer an un­ob­structed view of the com­plex mech­a­nism; the HM7 Aqua­pod (top) is built with an aquatic theme

BUILD­ING BLOCKS While the LM Per­pet­ual (left) is con­structed much like a con­ven­tional move­ment with parts spread across the en­tire space, the HM7 Aqua­pod (right) is stacked, al­low­ing for the sub­mersible­like struc­ture of the watch to stand out

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