Wine Speak

Ries­ling con­tin­ues to dom­i­nate the qual­ity wine vibe in Al­sace, but pinot noir has an ex­cit­ing pro­file that may one day equal the greats of Bur­gundy, writes James Suck­ling

T. Dining by Singapore Tatler - - Contents -

James Suck­ling shares why there’s more to Al­sace than world-class ries­ling

DOMAINE ZINDHUMBRECHT PINOT GRIS AL­SACE GRAND CRU RANGEN DE THANN CLOS SAINT URBAIN 2015

This is di­alled back and di­alled in. The pu­rity is su­perb, with crushed ap­ple, peach, lemon and slate char­ac­ter.

Full body, lightly sweet and very fruity but the lin­ear length and fo­cus are im­pres­sive–it’s like tast­ing freshly picked grapes. Drink now or hold for as long as you like. Made from bio­dy­nam­i­cally grown grapes.

97 points DOMAINE OSTERTAG RIES­LING AL­SACE GRAND CRU MUENCHBERG 2015

A dense yet en­er­getic white with sliced peach, flint and stone char­ac­ter. Medium to full body, solid palate and a fresh, vivid finish. Made from or­gan­i­cally grown grapes and Deme­ter-ap­proved. Drink now.

98 points AL­BERT MANN PINOT NOIR AL­SACE GRAND H 2015

Dark, pow­er­ful and ripe with plenty of dry tan­nins. This wine car­ries all that rather well and the finish is long and bal­anced in spite of the mas­sive tan­nic struc­ture. This has so much that isn’t yet show­ing prop­erly. Try to be pa­tient, be­cause this will be bet­ter from 2019 through to 2030.

97 points MURÉ RIES­LING AL­SACE GRAND CRU VORBOURG CLOS ST LANDELIN SE­LEC­TION DE GRAINS NOBLES 2015

Enor­mously dense, dried-fruit aro­mas, lush and trop­i­cal al­most to the point of deca­dence. How­ever, there’s enough acid­ity to carry this. The true depths are still buried be­neath all the rich­ness. If you want to ex­pe­ri­ence them, you will have to wait un­til maybe 2025, though this wine could live 50 years. Made from bio­dy­namic grapes and Deme­ter-cer­ti­fied.

98 points FAMILLE HUGEL RIES­LING AL­SACE SCHOELHAMMER 2008

A very com­plex rose petal and herbal ries­ling that is ridicu­lously fresh for al­most a decade of age. Very mus­cu­lar and con­cen­trated, but still cool and fresh with enor­mous min­eral depth at the finish. Just com­ing to its peak, but has decades of age­ing po­ten­tial.

96 points

SCHOFFIT GEWURZTRAMINER AL­SACE GRAND CRU RANGEN CLOS SAINT THEOBALD SE­LEC­TION DE GRAINS NOBLES 2006

Hold on to your hat. Deep am­ber colour, with enor­mous crème brûlée char­ac­ter and power; but there’s also enough acid­ity to keep it clean. Very long finish with in­tense caramel, but also cin­na­mon and all­spice notes. Ought to keep for an­other cou­ple of decades.

97 points F E TRIMBACH RIES­LING AL­SACE CLOS SAINTE HUNE 2011

This is re­ally deep and dense with a long, long finish. It’s full-bod­ied plus has a min­eral, salt and dried fruits char­ac­ter. Very pow­er­ful with a super finish that’s gen­er­ous and sexy. Avail­able in 2018.

95 points DOMAINE WEINBACH RIES­LING AL­SACE GRAND CRU SCHLOSSBERG VENDANGES TARDIVES 2015

The fresh­ness and con­cen­tra­tion of this super-el­e­gant ries­ling lit­er­ally take your breath away. Di­a­mond-like brilliance and su­perfine peach, cit­rus and trop­i­cal flower aro­mas. Some sweet­ness– though you barely no­tice it–and at the finish there is stun­ning min­eral fresh­ness. You could drink it now, but in five, 10, 20 and more years it will also be spec­tac­u­lar.

97 points AL­BERT MANN PINOT NOIR AL­SACE LES SAINTES CLAIRES 2015

If you haven’t re­alised what Al­sace is do­ing with pinot noir, then this would be a great place to start. Fra­grant and re­fined, with great fruit and very el­e­gant tan­nins. This is the real thing. The finish is very long and el­e­gant. Beau­ti­ful now but will keep for 20 years.

97 points DOMAINE VALENTIN ZUSSLIN RIES­LING AL­SACE GRAND CRU PFINGSTBERG VENDANGES TARDIVES 2015

This is quite sweet, but don’t imag­ine there’s any­thing sim­ple or su­per­fi­cial about this wine at all. In fact, it has great mirabelle fruit, enor­mous struc­ture and a min­er­al­ity that just won’t let you go at the very long finish. Bet­ter from 2020 when the sweet­ness is less ob­vi­ous. Will age for decades. Made from bio­dy­namic grapes and Eco­cert-cer­ti­fied.

96 points

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Singapore

© PressReader. All rights reserved.