Cook­ing With A Con­science

T. Dining by Singapore Tatler - - Starter Bites -

It’s not just a mat­ter of taste, chef and eco-war­rior Simon Ro­gan tells Don Men­doza

De­spite suc­cess back home in the United King­dom,

Simon Ro­gan has a soft spot for Asian food. If you do get a chance to dine at one of his restau­rants, the in­flu­ences are delectably ev­i­dent. But, ask him to de­scribe his culi­nary style, and the most ob­vi­ous ref­er­ence would be his two-miche­lin star river­side restau­rant, L’en­clume, with rooms and a farm, which he opened in the idyl­lic vil­lage of Cart­mel in 2002, serv­ing a cui­sine that’s based on in­gre­di­ents from the restau­rant’s lo­cal sur­round­ings.

“That’s why it’s so suc­cess­ful—it’s an amaz­ing ethos and peo­ple re­ally ap­pre­ci­ate that,” Ro­gan af­firms. The rules are a bit more relaxed with his Lon­don restau­rants—aulis and Ro­ganic—which fea­ture food from all over the UK and some in­ter­na­tion­ally sourced in­gre­di­ents as well, re­flect­ing the cos­mopoli­tan city.

Like a hand­ful of top chefs—blue Hill at Stone Barns’ Dan Bar­ber, Noma’s René Redzepi and Aus­tralia’s Dan Hunter of Brae—who are com­mit­ted to qual­ity in­gre­di­ents and eth­i­cal sourc­ing, what in­spires the chef and what moves him to do what he does?

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