SYMPHONY OF FLAVOURS
WHILE OMOTÉ IS KNOWN FOR ITS CONTEMPORARY JAPANESE FARE, ITS PRIVATE OMAKASE DINING BY HEAD CHEF NAGAE TOSHIHARU OFFERS CREATIVE MENUS ANCHORED IN TRADITIONAL WASHOKU STYLE
When Omoté, formerly Sushiro, moved to bigger and improved premises at the same mall in 2017, the team wanted to offer a different and more refined experience to customers beyond the delectable modern Japanese fare at affordable prices. That was when the idea of a bespoke dining experience—omoté Private Dining by Nagae— was born. Launched in August 2019, executive chef Philip Christopher Miu explains: “We want diners to experience the fresh flavours of Japan’s produce and ingredients through our omakase menu, so head chef Nagae Toshiharu follows the traditional approach to Japanese cooking.”
Nagae’s washoku cuisine takes pride of place in the intimate room, which seems to transport diners to the traditional sushi-ya places in Tokyo, with minimalist interiors accented with eye-catching Arita porcelain ware on the shelves. While there are a few tables designed for bigger groups, the best seat is at the sushi counter, where Nagae will regale you with stories of provenance as he skilfully prepares each course.
An ideal way to witness his culinary prowess is through the sushi omakase menu, comprising 10 pieces of sushi, soup and dessert. Nagae shares that he has been using the same rice supplier from Hokkaido (where he’s originally from) for years because “the quality is better”,
while the seafood from Toyosu Fish Market is flown in every Friday to ensure that what you have on your plate is the freshest produce available. The private dining is only open from Fridays to Sundays for lunch and dinner. And reservations are a must.
Nagae starts the omakase menu with a sweet-savoury selection of tamago with a decadent pork filling, lightly salted ginkgo nuts on a stick, mushrooms and a tiger prawn that is simply cooked in boiling water with a dash of sugar to enhance its natural sweetness.
Then there’s the variety of sushi, which is dependent on what the season has to offer. Watching Nagae prepare the sushi is mesmerising. With 50 years of experience, he thinly slices the likes of kanpachi (amberjack), shima-aji (striped jack), aji (horse mackerel) and otoro (tuna) with amazing skill and precision. He then places each slice atop perfectly moulded vinegared rice, balanced with the tingly hit of freshly grated wasabi and soy sauce that’s specially made for Omoté.
Diners can expect to be surprised by more cooked dishes, such as lightly seared bonito fish, served with spring onions, grated garlic and ginger, as well as ponzu sauce for a wonderful contrast of zesty and piquant flavours. There is also a serving of minced tuna belly that is mixed with diced leek and then wrapped in delicately grilled seaweed for a crisp finish.
There’s no better way to end the meal than with hot soup, but instead of the typical miso based options, Nagae prefers to serve an umami-packed broth made with housemade dashi and bonito that is studded with mushrooms and chunks of snapper for added indulgence. It’s even served in a specially curated miniature teapot for dramatic effect. Last but not least is a light dessert to cap off a filling and thoroughly satisfying meal, where you have a choice of seasonal Japanese fruits or ice cream.