SIZ­ING DOWN

The Peak Selections: Timepieces - - The Brief / Trend Report -

A DECADE AGO, SU­PER­SIZED BE­HE­MOTHS UP­WARDS OF 44MM WERE ALL THE RAGE. FIVE YEARS LATER, THE SHIFT TO­WARDS MORE REA­SON­ABLY SIZED 40MM AND 42MM TIMEPIECES BE­GAN. NOW, THIS DOWN­WARD SHIFT BE­COMES EVEN MORE PRO­NOUNCED, WITH THE IN­TRO­DUC­TION OF 36MM MOD­ELS.

01 / PATEK PHILIPPE WORLD TIME CHRONO­GRAPH 5930G

With a white gold case 39.5mm wide and 12mm high, the 5930G is the world’s small­est watch with world-time and chrono­graph func­tions – and also marks the first time Patek Philippe is com­bin­ing both com­pli­ca­tions in a watch (ex­clud­ing a unique piece made for a client in 1940). It packs in two use­ful fea­tures – a 24 time zone world-timer and 30-minute chrono­graph, driven by the new Cal­i­bre CH 28-520 HU. The three-part dial fea­tures a hand-guil­loche cen­tre with stun­ning blue PVD treat­ment.

02 / TU­DOR HER­ITAGE BLACK BAY 36

While a lot of at­ten­tion has gone to Tu­dor’s 2016 block­busters, the Black Bay Dark and Black Bay Bronze, we be­lieve that their lit­tle cousin, the Black Bay 36, de­serves its share of adu­la­tion. Sure, it might not have an in-house move­ment like Tu­dor’s other afore­men­tioned new re­leases – its en­gine is an ETA 2824 – but its 36mm chas­sis will sit bet­ter on slim­mer wrists. And with a flat bezel and crys­tal, it is a more el­e­gant propo­si­tion over­all.

03 / IWC PI­LOT’S WATCH AU­TO­MATIC 36

From plus-sized mod­els – 48 and 55mm – to waif-like nymphs – 36mm – IWC’s 2016 Pi­lot’s Watch col­lec­tion runs the gamut of case sizes. This 36mm edi­tion, the Au­to­matic, is meant to be the dressi­est of the lot, hence only the most essential in­for­ma­tion, time and date, has made its way onto the sun­ray-fin­ished dial. Run­ning on IWC Cal­i­bre 35111 and com­pleted by a chic San­toni strap, the watch works well on both mas­cu­line and fem­i­nine wrists.

04 / BREMONT AC- I 32 LADIES CHRONOME­TER

Pre­vi­ously a male-ori­ented brand heavy on mil­i­tary/ avi­a­tion-in­spired pieces plus chrono­graphs and sports watches, Bremont this year de­cided to dan­gle a car­rot for its fe­male ad­mir­ers. A few months af­ter de­but­ing its women’s Solo-32 col­lec­tion, Bremont in­tro­duces the AC-I 32 Ladies Chronome­ter in a 32mm hous­ing. Fea­tur­ing a COSC-cer­ti­fied au­to­matic move­ment buzzing at 4Hz, the watch is also dif­fer­en­ti­ated by an em­bossed dial and is lim­ited to 535 pieces.

05 / OMEGA SEA­MAS­TER PLANET OCEAN 39.5 MM

With the up­grade to new Metas-cer­ti­fied Master Chronome­ter move­ments came the op­por­tu­nity for Omega to tweak its port­fo­lio of clas­sics. Among these is the Sea­mas­ter Planet Ocean, now housed in a 39.5mm case – in be­tween the ex­ist­ing 37.5mm and 42mm va­ri­eties. Move­ment-wise, it sports Cal­i­bre 8801/8800 com­pared to the older 8615, while on the aes­thetic front, two ver­sions are of­fered: Sedna gold with brown ce­ramic bezel or bimetal­lic (Sedna gold and stain­less steel).

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