BLACK MAGIC

The Peak Selections: Timepieces - - The Brief / Trend Report -

DARK KNIGHTS STORM INTO THE HORO­LOG­I­CAL ARENA, BRAN­DISH­ING STEALTHY COATS OF AR­MOUR IN THE FORM OF DLC, PVD AND NEWER, HIGH-TECH MA­TE­RI­ALS LIKE BREITLIGHT. YUP – BLACK, ONCE AGAIN, IS THE NEW BLACK.

01 / BVLGARI OCTO FINISSIMO TOUR­BIL­LON

Sheathed in a sleek black DLC (di­a­mond-like car­bon) coat­ing, Bul­gari’s Octo Ul­tranero col­lec­tion tar­gets a younger, trendier, sportier clien­tele, as com­pared to the reg­u­lar Octo col­lec­tion. Crown­ing the se­ries is the Octo Finissimo Tour­bil­lon, a man­u­ally wound time­piece with an ul­tra-thin fly­ing tour­bil­lon, housed in a DLC-coated ti­ta­nium case just 5mm thick. The three other Octo Ul­tranero nov­el­ties, com­pris­ing a chrono­graph, and two vari­a­tions of a three-han­der with date, come in cases crafted from DLC-coated steel.

02 / TU­DOR HER­ITAGE BLACK BAY DARK

Housed in a black PVD (phys­i­cal vapour de­po­si­tion)-treated steel case with match­ing bracelet or dis­tressed leather strap, this watch boasts the new COSC-cer­ti­fied in-house move­ment, MT5602, fea­tur­ing a sil­i­con bal­ance spring and 70-hour power re­serve. The red tri­an­gle on the div­ing bezel is a throw­back to Tu­dor’s Sub­mariners from the 1950s. On the dial, the Tu­dor rose has been re­placed by the Tu­dor shield, which we feel is a bet­ter, more mas­cu­line fit.

03 / BREITLING AVENGER HUR­RI­CANE

De­spite its mil­i­taris­tic styling and hulk­ing 50mm di­am­e­ter, Breitling’s Avenger Hur­ri­cane is an ex­treme feath­er­weight, thanks to a new case ma­te­rial de­vel­oped in-house. Called Breitlight (clearly, the name makes reference to its weight, rather than its colour), this high-tech poly­mer is re­put­edly six times lighter than steel, four times lighter than ti­ta­nium, and harder than ei­ther. It is also an­ti­mag­netic and hy­poal­ler­genic. Cal­i­bre B12, the lat­est vari­ant of Breitling’s base B01 cal­i­bre, drives this beast.

04 / CHOPARD MILLE MIGLIA GTS AU­TO­MATIC SPEED BLACK

As with pre­vi­ous Mille Miglia watches, the new GTS Au­to­matic Speed Black is rife with bold, sporty ac­cents. The black DLC-coated steel case and black dial serve as per­fect foils to the over­sized white nu­mer­als and red in­flec­tions, such as the race’s official logo at three o’clock, which sur­rounds the date aper­ture, and mim­ics the num­bers on the doors and bon­nets of com­pet­ing cars. The strap boasts a 1960s Dun­lop rac­ing tyre-tread mo­tif.

05 / MONTBLANC TIMEWALKER EXOTOURBILLON MINUTE CHRONO­GRAPH

This time­piece re­sem­bles the lovechild of 2015’s Timewalker Ur­ban Speed and Her­itage Chronome­trie Exotourbillon Minute Chrono­graph. In fact, it is driven by the same move­ment as the lat­ter, Cal­i­bre MB R230, and hence also has the same func­tions. But, while the lat­ter sported a clas­si­cal rose-gold getup, this new model bears the mod­ern city-slicker vibe of the Ur­ban Speed, with its black-and-red colour­way. Its case ma­te­ri­als are mod­ern, too: ti­ta­nium, car­bon fi­bre and DLC.

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