The Peak Selections: Timepieces - - Fan Faves -


A made-to-or­der unique piece rather than a con­cept watch, Ref. 57260 de­serves men­tion here for the new com­pli­ca­tions that it in­tro­duced, some of which have al­ready made their way (with mod­i­fi­ca­tions) into other time­pieces. A nearly 1kg tour de force eight years in the mak­ing, this large pocket watch con­tains a whop­ping 57 com­pli­ca­tions by the man­u­fac­ture’s reck­on­ing, including a He­brew per­pet­ual cal­en­dar that is unique to it.


The He­brew cal­en­dar is dif­fi­cult to re­alise due to its pe­cu­liar­i­ties – a com­plete cy­cle spans 19 years, with a 13th “leap month” added to seven of them, while two of the 12 “reg­u­lar months” run a day short on spe­cific years. Pro­gram­ming such a cal­en­dar me­chan­i­cally by us­ing wheels is al­ready a chal­lenge, let alone dis­play­ing it co­her­ently on the dial. Two other world-first mech­a­nisms in Ref. 57260 have been adapted for an­other watch (see next sec­tion).


Re­leased in 2016, the Maitre Cabinotier Ret­ro­grade Ar­mil­lary Tour­bil­lon is a unique piece hous­ing two special fea­tures mod­i­fied from mech­a­nisms cre­ated for Ref. 57260. Firstly, its coax­ial (shar­ing the same axis) hour and minute hands show the time on a dou­ble ret­ro­grade dis­play. This de­sign is based on the Ref. 57260’s dou­ble ret­ro­grade rat­tra­pante chrono­graph, which uses ret­ro­grade dis­plays for both the chrono­graph sec­onds and rat­tra­pante hands. Dou­ble ret­ro­grade dis­play aside, the Maitre Cabinotier Ret­ro­grade Ar­mil­lary Tour­bil­lon also sports Ref. 57260’s Ar­mil­lary tour­bil­lon – named for the ar­mil­lary sphere that in­spired its de­sign. Un­like the pocket watch’s three-axis de­sign, how­ever, the newer wrist­watch’s tour­bil­lon is bi-ax­ial.

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