GAME OF DOUBLES
Less commonly spotted than their single-breasted brethren, doublebreasted (DB) jackets might seem overly dressy to many suit wearers these days, but they actually began life as relatively sportive, more casual pieces of outerwear back in the 19th century.
In recent years, designers have frequently channelled this historical ease with different updates to the DB jacket – by shortening its length and easing its fit, for instance. Its latest incarnations feature a relaxed, boxy silhouette with a longer length, giving the look a laid-back coolness with a rock ‘n’ roll edge. Indeed, as part of her first menswear collection, Stella McCartney – British designer and daughter of former Beatle Paul McCartney – created a plaid suit topped by a four-button DB, a look directly inspired by her dad’s closet.
Presenting his debut collection for Berluti, creative director Haider Ackermann also gave his DB a similar soulful spin: On that runway, his DB wearers included a long-locked model sporting a high-sheen black DB suit, slightly cropped and tapered trousers and a guitar case slung over his shoulder. A great example of how to wear the DB suit this season (musical instrument optional).
Fromleft: Berluti,Balenciaga, StellaMcCartney, BottegaVeneta.