For a taste of pure poetry, look no further than Pio Cesare’s expressive Barolos
On the mist-covered vineclad hills of the Piedmont, you’ll find two of Italy’s most engaging wines—the Barbaresco and Barolo. Both are produced from the Nebbiolo grape, and what lies in every bottle is pure poetry. The Nebbiolo grape produces lightly coloured red wines with a huge dose of astringency. The aromas are plentiful— blackberry, strawberry, cherries, raspberries with overtones of herbs, liquorice and roses. Over time, Barbaresco and Barolo wines mature to reveal perfumed aromas and flavours such as truffles, smoke, leather, tar, violets, wild herbs, tobacco, prunes and animal notes. In short, expect all the hallmarks of a lovingly aged fine wine.
But that’s not all. Choosing when to enjoy your Nebbiolo wine is half the fun. Some Barbarescos and Barolos are made in the traditional style. Here, the wine is kept with skins and seeds for two months, then aged in big old casks made of chestnut or Slovenian oak called botti. The liquid then slowly oxidizes. What results is a tannic and austere wine, with delightful notes of tar, camphor, leather and more. These bottles are best approached after 10 years.
Then there’s the New Wave Barbaresco and Barolo. Made in a modern style with fruit flavour intact, the wine is aged for a shorter period in new small oak barrels and/ or a blend of new and old oak (French and Slovenian) barrels. With climate change and rising temperatures, producers of the New Wave claim that being able to harvest ripe grapes means that the traditional method of extended maceration is no longer necessary. The resulting wines have creamy, fruity-sweet New World characteristics, coupled with vanilla, smoke and spice overtones imparted by the barrels. Best of all, one does not have to wait too long for the wines to confer gratification.
Last but not least, there are the winemakers perched right in the middle, who believe that the New Wave approach leads to Barolos and Barbarescos that are indistinguishable from other New World wines. They began to use production methods that incorporate both the traditional and the modern. Wines are aged in both the botti and barrique, incorporating the best of two worlds.
THE WINES OF PIO CESARE
One such producer and estate is Pio Cesare, one of Alba’s leading wineries. Recently, fourth generation Pio Boffa was in Singapore to present a workshop, offering an insight into Pio Cesare single vineyards, blends and barrel samples.
Pio Cesare dates back to 1881 and in historical terms, is as traditional as you get. In those days, every Piedmont family had their secret recipe of how to produce wine. Grapes were purchased from vineyards in various parts of the region. For example, if grapes came from the western hills of Barolo, they were grown on sandy light soil with some stones. The resulting wine would have a certain finesse, with softer tannins and is often approachable even when young. If grapes were grown on the limestone compact soils of the eastern hills, the wines will be concentrated and have heftier tannins. Wines would be long ageing.
Grapes still go through a relatively long maceration, pre- and post-fermentation, but ageing is both in small barriques composed equally of new, one-year-old and two-year-old barriques, as well as in the traditional botti.
Soils are not the only distinguishing factor. Research has revealed that microclimate is another variant. The western commune of La Morra offers wines that are often fruity and elegant, thanks to the moderating influence (warmth) of the river nearby.
In the east, Serralunga d’Alba and Monteforte d’Alba, the commune wines are perfumed but big and tannic, the result of a colder growing area.
By the 20th century, Pio Cesare sought better control of the fruit source and began acquiring vineyards. Production today remains at 400,000 bottles per annum, the output of a boutique winery. With total control of the vineyards, Pio Cesare began offering single vineyard wines.
Wine lovers can enjoy the Pio Cesare crus of Barolo Roncaglie (La Morra), Barolo Ornato (Serralunga d’Alba) and Barolo Mosconi (Monforte d’Alba). Pio Boffa admits that these single vineyard wines are indeed complex and impressive. Yet they are not considered the flagship wines of Pio Cesare.
Rather, it is the ‘classic’ Barolo, a blend of five different communes that is the estate’s best wine. Each commune imparts the following characteristics: Serralunga d’Alba (vineyards of Cascina Ornato, La Serra and Briccolina), for structure and longevity; Grinzane Cavour (vineyards of Gustava and Garretti) gives finesse and body; La Morra (Roncaglie vineyard) brings elegance and immediacy; Novello (Ravera vineyard) offers freshness and fruit; last but
not least, Monforte d’Alba (Mosconi vineyard) brings structure and power.
With each commune and their single vineyards contributing unique characteristics, the ‘classic’ blended Barolo is the singularly most expressive and memorable wine of the Pio Cesare estate.
The following notes of a ‘verticalhorizontal’ tasting attest to this.
BAROLO RONCAGLIE 2016 (SINGLE VINEYARD BARREL SAMPLE)
Fruity with floral characteristics, dark ripe cherries, dried herbs and a hint of nuts, good structure, long, sweet finish.
BAROLO ORNATO 2016 (SINGLE VINEYARD BARREL SAMPLE)
Attractive fresh mint and cherry notes, flavoursome with fresh herbs, basil, white pepper. Bigger than previous, almost powerful and mid-length with lingering nuances of eucalyptus.
BAROLO MOSCONI 2016 (BARREL SAMPLE)
Fruit and herbs with small fruit dominating; some pepper and lots of spice. Balanced with fruit sweetness, tannic structure and some complexity. Develops in the glass with vanilla overtones. A wine for longer maturation.
BAROLO BLEND OF MOSCONI 2016, RONCAGLIE 2016 AND ORNATO 2016 (POSSIBLE CLASSIC BAROLO FOR 2016)
Reminiscent of a lighter version of Mosconi but quite compex with good fruit, boiled sweets, herbs spices with fine tannins. Potential for the long haul.
BAROLO RONCAGLIE 2015
Purple edge and dark core. Forward sweet fruit including crushed cherries and hay. Touch of higher alcohol tones add some complexity. Fine structured tannins, ripe and long finish with fruit.
BAROLO ORNATO 2015
Sweet ripe cherries, plums and black fruit. Meaty characteristics. Luscious with stronger tannins and creamy finish.
BAROLO MOSCONI 2015
Complex with crushed cherries, ripe fruit as well as cooked fruit underlined with leather tones. Blackcurrant flavours with medium tannins and a lifted sweet finish.
BAROLO BLEND OF MOSCONI, RONCAGLIE AND ORNATO, 2015
Superb balance of fruit (cherries, currants etc), tannins, acid and sweetness. Elegant and subtle, but this wine is no pushover. Tannins are fine-grained, ample and the wine has a long finish. Evident that this wine combines the qualities of the single vineyards in its expression.
Sweet fruit, soft tannins, complex and utterly delicious.
Florals giving way to fruit characters. Perfume of orchids, complexity in the nose and palate with leather and earth. Ultra fine tannins, ready to be savoured. Memorable.
Fruit emerging after perhaps a closed period. Some florals and meat, and starting to show some life. The peak has yet to be reached.
Big muscular wine, with coffee, meat, banana and mega tannins. Thick and textured, with a long finish. Impressive.
Elegant, balanced, full flavoured and complex. Soft yet with sticky tannins and a lightly dry finish. Beautiful drink. Another favourite.
Vineyards located at the bottom of the Castle of Grinzane Cavour
Top Tasting a variety of Barolos