JAAN

Wine & Dine - - RESTAURANTS - Level 70, Equinox Com­plex, 2 Stam­ford Road. Tel: 6837 3322

We have long loved Jaan for its ex­quis­ite con­tem­po­rary cui­sine, jaw-drop­ping views and im­pec­ca­ble ser­vice. Now, chef Kirk West­away has upped the ante with a sim­ply fab­u­lous Bri­tishin­spired menu, com­plete with an evoca­tive all-Brit sound­track play­ing in the back­ground.

From the get-go, chef West­away’s quar­tet of snacks set the tone for the rest of the meal. These in­clude buck­wheat pan­cake fea­tur­ing Devon ched­dar cheese, a melt-in-your-mouth beet­root meringue made with or­ganic beet­root from York­shire, and a clever take on that quintessen­tially British clas­sic, fish and chips. No chunky bat­tered fish and greasy chips here. In­stead, the last fea­tures a del­i­cately crisp mini potato tart­let bear­ing cod bran­dade spiked with a splash of vine­gar.

But as much as it is about ‘rein­vent­ing’ the clas­sics, as the name of the menu may sug­gests, it is also about show­cas­ing British pro­duce, such as in the gen­tly poached Ir­ish oyster paired with steamed Jerusalem ar­ti­choke cus­tard and a gen­er­ous sprin­kle of Kristal caviar, a lovely briny melange of flavours and tex­tures. Or the dish named English Gar­den, which fea­tures lightly poached sea­sonal English veg­eta­bles paired with umami-packed black olive pow­der and an equally mor­eish an­chovy dress­ing, driz­zled over—lit­er­ally, via a mini wa­ter­ing can— with a seaweed and herb broth. There is also the beau­ti­fully cooked tur­bot, a flat­fish read­ily found in British wa­ters, here paired with a smooth, rich pur­ple ar­ti­choke puree, blanched kohlrabi and a de­li­ciously tangy sauce; and Welsh salt marsh lamb served with min­i­mal em­bel­lish­ment and sauces on the side.

Give that there is a dearth of British fine din­ing restau­rants in this part of the world, this is a re­fresh­ing change. The fact that it is well-ex­e­cuted, with just the right re­straint and no tacky gim­micks make it mem­o­rable. Ver­dict: We like.

Chef Kirk West­away

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