114 Get That Glow

Be­cause of its lu­mi­nous date and moon phase dis­plays, the A. Lange & Söhne Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase Lu­men likes be­ing kept in the dark

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The A. Lange & Söhne Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase Lu­men works fine in the dark

The Lange 1 is, with­out doubt, one of the most eas­ily recog­nised lux­ury watches in the world. Four things helped es­tab­lish its core de­sign aes­thetic: the out­sized date, the of­f­cen­tre hours and min­utes, the small sec­onds, and the power re­serve in­di­ca­tor. Yet, in spite of this static de­sign code, A. Lange & Söhne con­tin­u­ally puts out new and ever more ex­cit­ing vari­a­tions of the watch. The lat­est it­er­a­tion to join the fam­ily is this Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase Lu­men – a watch that prom­ises ev­ery­thing and hides noth­ing.

As it’s a Grand Lange 1, it has a larger case di­am­e­ter of 41mm as op­posed to the reg­u­lar Lange 1’s 38.5mm, and un­like the Lange 1 Moon Phase, which places the moon phase in­di­ca­tor within the small sec­onds counter, the Grand Lange 1 has the moon phase in­di­ca­tor placed within the hours and min­utes sub-dial, thus af­ford­ing a larger, clearer dis­play. But what makes this watch a stand­out piece isn’t the fact that it prof­fers a moon phase com­pli­ca­tion. Rather, it has to do with the spe­cial ef­fects, which A. Lange & Söhne has ap­plied to the de­sign.

In 2013, the man­u­fac­ture in­tro­duced a new de­sign con­cept called Lu­men in the Grand Lange 1. That time­piece had a semi­trans­par­ent sap­phire crys­tal ex­pos­ing the unique mech­a­nism of the out­sized date, which glowed in the dark, as did the hour nu­mer­als, in­dexes, and hands – a first for A. Lange & Söhne. Only 200 of those were made and all were spo­ken for within days of its launch, which means that the Grand Lange 1 Lu­men is no longer in pro­duc­tion. Hap­pily, the man­u­fac­ture has con­tin­ued this glow­ing streak at this year’s SIHH with the Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase Lu­men, which has ev­ery­thing its pre­de­ces­sor of­fers, and more.

Apart from the semi-trans­par­ent sap­phire crys­tal re­veal­ing com­po­nents of the move­ment in­side, Cal­i­bre L095.4, this new model fea­tures a dial in black­ened sil­ver and a moon phase dis­play made of glass, which had been treated with a patented coat­ing process be­fore it went un­der the laser to have its stars – all 1,164 of them – and the moons cut out. These ce­les­tial in­di­ca­tors are able to glow in the dark be­cause of a lu­mi­nous com­pound ap­plied to the back of the disc. Sim­ply turn out the lights to revel in the mag­nif­i­cence of this moon phase dis­play, ac­cu­rate to 122.6 years.

But while dark and omi­nous on the front, the Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase Lu­men also has its tra­di­tional, clas­sic side. Show­cased through the ex­hi­bi­tion case back, the glo­ri­ous the Ger­man sil­ver three-quar­ter plate – dec­o­rated with Glashütte rib­bing and stud­ded with pink jew­els, gold cha­tons, and blued screws – re­minds one of the watch’s em­i­nent Ger­man pedi­gree, and the hand-en­graved bal­ance cock in­stantly iden­ti­fies it as a prod­uct of the A. Lange & Söhne man­u­fac­ture. Cased in plat­inum, the Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase Lu­men is avail­able in a lim­ited run of 200 pieces. MOVE­MENT Man­ual-wind­ing Cal­i­bre L095.4 with moon phase in­di­ca­tor and 72-hour power re­serve

CASE 41mm in plat­inum, wa­ter re­sis­tant to 30m

STRAP Hand-stitched black al­li­ga­tor leather with plat­inum de­ploy­ant buckle

PRICE €69,600 (ap­prox­i­mately $106,700)

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