114 Get That Glow
Because of its luminous date and moon phase displays, the A. Lange & Söhne Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase Lumen likes being kept in the dark
The A. Lange & Söhne Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase Lumen works fine in the dark
The Lange 1 is, without doubt, one of the most easily recognised luxury watches in the world. Four things helped establish its core design aesthetic: the outsized date, the offcentre hours and minutes, the small seconds, and the power reserve indicator. Yet, in spite of this static design code, A. Lange & Söhne continually puts out new and ever more exciting variations of the watch. The latest iteration to join the family is this Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase Lumen – a watch that promises everything and hides nothing.
As it’s a Grand Lange 1, it has a larger case diameter of 41mm as opposed to the regular Lange 1’s 38.5mm, and unlike the Lange 1 Moon Phase, which places the moon phase indicator within the small seconds counter, the Grand Lange 1 has the moon phase indicator placed within the hours and minutes sub-dial, thus affording a larger, clearer display. But what makes this watch a standout piece isn’t the fact that it proffers a moon phase complication. Rather, it has to do with the special effects, which A. Lange & Söhne has applied to the design.
In 2013, the manufacture introduced a new design concept called Lumen in the Grand Lange 1. That timepiece had a semitransparent sapphire crystal exposing the unique mechanism of the outsized date, which glowed in the dark, as did the hour numerals, indexes, and hands – a first for A. Lange & Söhne. Only 200 of those were made and all were spoken for within days of its launch, which means that the Grand Lange 1 Lumen is no longer in production. Happily, the manufacture has continued this glowing streak at this year’s SIHH with the Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase Lumen, which has everything its predecessor offers, and more.
Apart from the semi-transparent sapphire crystal revealing components of the movement inside, Calibre L095.4, this new model features a dial in blackened silver and a moon phase display made of glass, which had been treated with a patented coating process before it went under the laser to have its stars – all 1,164 of them – and the moons cut out. These celestial indicators are able to glow in the dark because of a luminous compound applied to the back of the disc. Simply turn out the lights to revel in the magnificence of this moon phase display, accurate to 122.6 years.
But while dark and ominous on the front, the Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase Lumen also has its traditional, classic side. Showcased through the exhibition case back, the glorious the German silver three-quarter plate – decorated with Glashütte ribbing and studded with pink jewels, gold chatons, and blued screws – reminds one of the watch’s eminent German pedigree, and the hand-engraved balance cock instantly identifies it as a product of the A. Lange & Söhne manufacture. Cased in platinum, the Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase Lumen is available in a limited run of 200 pieces. MOVEMENT Manual-winding Calibre L095.4 with moon phase indicator and 72-hour power reserve
CASE 41mm in platinum, water resistant to 30m
STRAP Hand-stitched black alligator leather with platinum deployant buckle
PRICE €69,600 (approximately $106,700)