WIN­NING COMBO

World of Watches (Singapore) - - Basel Re­port | High­lights -

Com­bin­ing the world­timer and chrono­graph com­pli­ca­tions de­mands fi­nesse in both dial and move­ment de­sign that, as Ref. 5930 shows, Patek Philippe has in spades

Be­fore 2016, Patek Philippe had only paired the world­timer and chrono­graph to­gether once, in a unique piece named No. 862 442 dat­ing back to the 1940s. The dearth of this com­bi­na­tion of com­pli­ca­tions isn’t sur­pris­ing; both the world­timer and chrono­graph re­quire much space on the dial, and dis­play­ing all their in­for­ma­tion can make for a vis­ually over­whelm­ing watch. There is a cer­tain ro­mance to the di­chotomy though – they march at wildly dif­fer­ent ca­dences, with the chrono­graph split­ting time into frac­tions of a se­cond while its part­ner makes its steady, once-a-day rotation. The World Time Chrono­graph Ref. 5930 is Patek Philippe’s first foray into this pair­ing in over six decades, and will be part of the man­u­fac­ture’s reg­u­lar col­lec­tion.

Ref. 5930 is driven by a new cal­i­bre, CH 28-520 HU, es­sen­tially a CH 28-520 PS chrono­graph move­ment with an ad­di­tional world­timer mod­ule, al­though work such as the shift­ing of com­po­nents and the re­cal­cu­la­tion of their clear­ances had to be done as well. The chrono­graph was built for re­li­a­bil­ity, ac­cu­racy, and smooth op­er­a­tion, and thus it is col­umn wheel ac­tu­ated and ver­ti­cally cou­pled. It is also of the fly­back vari­ant. As for the world­timer, Patek Philippe has em­ployed a very user-friendly mod­ule – the pusher at 10 o’clock makes it a cinch to change one’s ref­er­ence city, which is an­chored at 12 o’clock; de­press­ing the push-but­ton shifts the city rings, 24-hour ring, and the hour hand si­mul­ta­ne­ously, which makes it very quick and easy to set the time when one moves to an­other city.

Me­chan­ics aside, Patek Philippe also needed a dial de­sign that will co­her­ently dis­play both com­pli­ca­tions’ in­for­ma­tion. The man­u­fac­ture has done more than just that, and even man­aged to carve out enough space for bar­l­ey­corn guil­loché dec­o­ra­tion. The dial con­sists of con­cen­tric rings around a cen­tral por­tion, with all its de­tails ren­dered in blues, whites, and greys. Vis­ually, things are bal­anced – the city rings are the busiest, and have been rel­e­gated to the edge to af­ford more space be­tween the words, with a sin­gle red dot serv­ing as an an­chor and re­minder for GMT +0. The sim­ple white gold ap­pliqué in­dexes, on the other hand, lend weight to the mid­dle of the dial. To cut down on clut­ter, Patek Philippe opted to re­strict the chrono­graph’s mea­sur­able elapsed time to just 30 min­utes, via a minute to­taliser sub-dial. Since world­timers tra­di­tion­ally do not have a run­ning sec­onds hand, this keeps the num­ber of hands to just four, and sub-di­als to just one. MOVE­MENT Self-wind­ing Patek Philippe CH 28-520 HU chrono­graph move­ment with world­timer; 50-hour power re­serve

CASE 39.5mm in white gold, water re­sis­tant to 30m STRAP Navy blue al­li­ga­tor with white gold de­ploy­ant buckle PRICE $97,100

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