REIN­TER­PRETED CLAS­SIC

World of Watches (Singapore) - - Basel Re­port | High­lights -

In­spired by a his­tor­i­cal time­piece from its mu­seum col­lec­tion, Gi­rard-per­re­gaux re­leases a new it­er­a­tion of its Three Gold Bridges watch – the Es­mer­alda Tour­bil­lon

First in­tro­duced in 1860, the Three Gold Bridges is Gi­rard­per­re­gaux’s call­ing card. Aes­thet­i­cally, there’s noth­ing else like it; less a spe­cific move­ment or even a fam­ily of it, the Three Gold Bridges is bet­ter de­scribed as a de­sign con­cept: three par­al­lel bridges with ar­row-shaped ends, in gold no less, an­chor­ing a move­ment’s lay­out. This presents a tech­ni­cal chal­lenge, as the com­po­nents must also be ar­ranged lin­early, which brings the watch­maker’s move­ment de­sign ex­per­tise into play.

Gi­rard-per­re­gaux has cre­ated sev­eral iconic watches with the Three Gold Bridges over the years, in­clud­ing a pocket chronome­ter dubbed “La Es­mer­alda”, which won a gold medal at the Ex­po­si­tion Uni­verselle of 1889 held in Paris. Or­nately dec­o­rated with en­grav­ings on its case, La Es­mer­alda’s move­ment used the Three Gold Bridges lay­out, had a piv­oted de­tent es­cape­ment for great ac­cu­racy, and also a tour­bil­lon to iron out po­si­tional er­rors. The watch was reac­quired by the man­u­fac­ture in 1970, and it is now a part of the Gi­rard-per­re­gaux Mu­seum’s col­lec­tion. The new Es­mer­alda Tour­bil­lon here is a rein­ter­pre­ta­tion of the time­piece, this time in a wrist­watch for­mat.

Be­sides mov­ing from the pocket to the wrist, the new Es­mer­alda Tour­bil­lon has its Three Gold Bridges on the dial side of the move­ment. The bridges here sup­port the bar­rel, mo­tion work, and tour­bil­lon, and ex­hibit a va­ri­ety of fin­ishes from mir­ror pol­ished top sur­faces to drawn flanks and hand cham­fered edges. This abil­ity of com­po­nents to be both func­tional and dec­o­ra­tive is echoed else­where on the dial. Note the tour­bil­lon, for in­stance. It spins the es­cape­ment, but does so with a lyre-shaped cage – a Gi­rard-per­re­gaux sig­na­ture that’s a wel­come de­par­ture from typ­i­cal three-arm de­signs. In the same vein of things, the os­cil­lat­ing weight here is a mi­cro ro­tor po­si­tioned co-ax­i­ally un­der­neath the bar­rel. This re­arrange­ment al­lows the bar­rel it­self to be up­sized to ex­tend the power re­serve by 25 per cent to 60 hours. MOVE­MENT Self-wind­ing Gi­rard-per­re­gaux GP09400-0004 with 60-hour power re­serve

CASE 45mm in pink gold, wa­ter re­sis­tant to 30m STRAP Black al­li­ga­tor with pink gold de­ploy­ant buckle PRICE $469,200

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Singapore

© PressReader. All rights reserved.