DE­SIGN EVO­LU­TION

World of Watches (Singapore) - - Basel Report | Highlights -

As the Glycine Air­man Air­fighter shows, greater value can be cre­ated by sim­ply of­fer­ing cre­ative vari­a­tions on a theme

Price aside, a watch’s value is also de­ter­mined by fac­tors rang­ing from its rar­ity to its tech­ni­cal com­plex­ity and move­ment dec­o­ra­tion. In the Air­man Air­fighter, Glycine has put twists on the com­pli­ca­tions com­monly seen in a pi­lot’s watch to make it both more use­ful, and more in­ter­est­ing.

At its heart, the time­piece is sim­ply a chronograph with an ad­di­tional GMT hand. Such a de­scrip­tion is too re­duc­tion­ist though. Take the GMT hand for a start – by adding a ro­tat­ing bezel with 24-hour mark­ings, which is lock­able by the crown at four o’clock, the Air­man Air­fighter is able to track a third time zone with­out any mod­i­fi­ca­tions to its move­ment. The chronograph here is also a fresh take on a fa­mil­iar com­pli­ca­tion; de­spite hav­ing a mono­pusher in­ter­face, the chronograph is ca­pa­ble of record­ing cu­mu­la­tive elapsed time for con­sec­u­tive events, un­like a tra­di­tional mono­pusher chronograph that se­quen­tially cy­cles through start­ing, stop­ping, and re­set­ting. This is ac­com­plished by de­sign­ing the “mono­pusher” as a bidi­rec­tional trig­ger – push­ing it up­wards starts and stops the chronograph, while do­ing so in the op­po­site di­rec­tion re­sets it. For the Air­man Air­fighter’s de­sign, Glycine has opted for an overtly sporty look. The im­pos­ing 46mm case is fit­ted with long straight lugs, and dressed in black, al­though vari­ants with the bezel in un­coated steel and rose gold are avail­able. The crown, bezel, and chronograph “trig­ger” all fea­ture gen­er­ous knurl­ing to en­sure that the user has a firm grip on all of them, fur­ther re­in­forc­ing the watch’s user-friend­li­ness. White in­dexes and mark­ings con­trast starkly with the pre­dom­i­nantly black dial, which makes for easy read­ing of the watch’s in­di­ca­tors at a glance.

MOVE­MENT Selfwind­ing GL754 chronograph move­ment with GMT dis­play, based on the Valjoux 7754; 46-hour power re­serve

CASE 46mm in Pvd­coated steel, wa­ter re­sis­tant to 200m

STRAP Black calf with steel de­ploy­ant buckle

PRICE $5,900

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Singapore

© PressReader. All rights reserved.