DY­NAMIC DIAL

World of Watches (Singapore) - - Basel Report | Highlights -

Per­relet’s new Lab col­lec­tion main­tains its sig­na­ture de­sign of hav­ing a ro­tor on the dial, but changes things up with a func­tional pe­riph­eral ro­tor this time

A typ­i­cal watch dial tends not to have much move­ment, save for the steady cadence of its sec­onds hand. There are, of course, myr­iad ways to cre­ate a more dy­namic scene on the wrist, such as the ad­di­tion of a whirling tour­bil­lon, or the mod­i­fi­ca­tion of the sec­onds hand into a ret­ro­grade one that snaps back rhyth­mi­cally. For Per­relet, the ef­forts to gen­er­ate vis­ual in­ter­est have cre­ated the brand’s calling card in the form of ro­tors, func­tional and/or dec­o­ra­tive, that sit on the watches’ di­als and con­stantly swing around with their wear­ers’ move­ments. The brand has gone with a con­tem­po­rary time­piece this time; the Lab strad­dles the sporty Tur­bine and the dressy First Class col­lec­tions in terms of de­sign, with a rea­son­able price point to boot.

Like its sib­lings, the high­light of the Lab is its ro­tor; Per­relet has moved the os­cil­lat­ing weight to the front of the watch and mod­i­fied it into a pe­riph­eral one that runs around the rim of the dial. This ne­ces­si­tated mod­i­fi­ca­tions to the move­ment, of course, but the brand has also de­signed the dial to ac­com­mo­date and ac­cen­tu­ate the ro­tor. Note the lay­ered dial ar­chi­tec­ture, for in­stance – the mid­dle por­tion of the in­ner dial is sunken vis-à-vis its rim, while the groove for the os­cil­lat­ing weight around it runs even deeper, be­fore giv­ing way to a steeply slop­ing flange that fi­nally meets the bezel. Mean­while, the ap­pliqué hour mark­ers are facetted and raised to fur­ther en­hance the per­cep­tion of depth. Al­though these hour mark­ers ap­pear can­tilevered, their outer halves are ac­tu­ally at­tached to a nearly in­vis­i­ble sap­phire crys­tal ring for greater ro­bust­ness.

To match the atyp­i­cal dial lay­out, the Lab’s case has been de­signed ac­cord­ingly. It is cush­ion shaped, but topped with an oc­tag­o­nal bezel. The over­all ef­fect is a bal­ance be­tween an­gles, straight lines, and curves, both on the case and dial. MOVE­MENT Self-wind­ing Per­relet P-411 cal­i­bre with 42-hour power re­serve

CASE 42mm in steel, wa­ter re­sis­tant to 50m STRAP Black al­li­ga­tor with steel de­ploy­ant buckle PRICE $8,000

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