World of Watches (Singapore) - - Features -


Au­to­matic move­ment beat­ing at 3Hz, with 60-hour power re­serve Di­men­sions: 26.6mm x 4.26mm Num­ber of parts: 280

ften banded to­gether with Patek Philippe and Vacheron Con­stantin as the “Big Three” of high watch­mak­ing, Aude­mars Piguet is phe­nom­e­nally plugged into pop cul­ture while re­main­ing firmly an­chored in high watch­mak­ing or­tho­doxy. Like no other, its long re­sume of firsts in watch­mak­ing in­no­va­tions and high com­pli­ca­tions sits very com­fort­ably with as­so­ci­a­tions on the funkier end of the cul­tural spec­trum, be­ing a peren­nial favourite of sports and rap roy­alty. Part of this comes from dy­namic think­ing, like in 1972, when Aude­mars Piguet prac­ti­cally cre­ated a new genre of the lux­ury sport watch when it in­tro­duced a steel watch, fin­ished to the stan­dard and priced ac­cord­ingly, as one of gold: thus the Royal Oak (RO) was born. To­gether with the burlier Royal Oak Off­shore (ROO) chronograph that came on the scene in 1993, and in an al­most un­lim­ited ar­se­nal of lim­ited edi­tions in var­i­ous colour com­bi­na­tions, the RO and ROO are wont to steal the thun­der from the com­pany’s ar­guably more ac­com­plished col­lec­tions. The move­ment that unites the hand­some duo, is the self-wind­ing Cal­i­bre 3120.

Like Patek Philippe’s 240 de­scribed above, the 3120 is also a base cal­i­bre meant to ac­com­mo­date more mo­d­ules for ad­di­tional com­pli­ca­tions. What’s dif­fer­ent is that the 3120 was not made thin, but ro­bust, in­clud­ing a bal­ance bridge that an­chors the os­cil­la­tor se­curely on two points, wound by a full-sized solid gold ro­tor. Its thick­ness is suited for the mas­cu­line, sporty RO and hulkier ROO. In the lat­ter’s case, be­cause the chronograph is a mod­ule stacked above the 3120, the date dis­play looks re­cessed – a quirk that has done noth­ing to dampen its pop­u­lar­ity.

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