Stars Within Reach 平价奢华

ZbBZ (Singapore) - - 本期精华 IN THIS ISSUE - TEXT Ng King Kang / 吴庆康

TThe cos­mos is a pop­u­lar theme in wrist­watch de­sign, where the dance of the stars and plan­ets is in­te­grated with com­plex move­ments in an out-of-this-world ex­pe­ri­ence 宇宙星辰是腕表设计的主要灵感来源之一,表盘上勾勒出的 唯美星空和融入机芯的繁复星象运行原理,将腕上时间提升到 新的层次。

o para­phrase that fa­mous line in po­etry, the uni­verse can be seen in a grain of sand and many watch­mak­ers take this no­tion to heart when they try to cap­ture the magic of the cos­mos in a wrist­watch. The starry skies are a salient theme at this year’s Sa­lon In­ter­na­tional de la Haute Hor­logerie (SIHH), with watch­mak­ers such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Ar­pels, A. Lange & Sohne and Jaeger-LeCoul­tre launch­ing breath­tak­ing de­signs in­spired by the heav­ens.

The Earth And Moon At Cartier

With the Ro­tonde de Cartier Earth and Moon, Cartier has cho­sen to tra­verse be­tween the earth and the moon in style and sub­stance.

The Ro­tonde de Cartier Earth and Moon tour­bil­lon with dual-time­zone and moon phase func­tions brings to­gether two com­pli­ca­tions in what must have l ooked li ke a high-stakes un­der­tak­ing when the idea was first con­ceived.

The tour­bil­lon, a com­pli­cated mech­a­nism that helps thwart the ef­fects of grav­ity on a watch’s ac­cu­racy es­pe­cially in the ver­ti­cal po­si­tion, has been in­cor­po­rated into a moon-phase com­pli­ca­tion, with each one de­pen­dent on the other. To­gether, they form a stylised por­trayal of the globe and the moon.

Their in­no­va­tive re­la­tion­ship can be seen on the watch face, which com­bines a tour­bil­lon, moon phase on de­mand and a sec­ond time­zone that is in­di­cated by a 24-hour disc that was en­tirely re­de­vel­oped for the cal­i­bre 9440 MC due to the so­phis­ti­ca­tion of its disc dis­play.

With the tour­bil­lon, Cartier has cre­ated an in­no­va­tive moon phase dis­play that is shown only when needed by the wearer. One press of the but­ton sit­u­ated at the four o’clock point on the side of the case ac­ti­vates a panel that de­scends to form a cres­cent, which cor­re­sponds to the shape of the moon in the sky at the point in time. The rear bridge cut-out forms a star shape that high­lights the in­cred­i­ble fin­ish of the 9440MC move­ment, which also forms a per­fect trio with the moon and earth fea­tured on the watch dial.

The unique globe de­sign and moon, rep­re­sented by the tour­bil­lon, cre­ate a cos­mos that gleams in a deep, rich blue from the use of ex­pertly pol­ished lapis lazuli for the dial and the moon panel. The hours and the sec­ond time­zone are sur­rounded by a metic­u­lously pol­ished grid in 18K white gold, along­side a dial of Ro­man nu­mer­als that are open­worked and cham­fered by the hand of a mas­ter dec­o­ra­tor in a man­ner akin to a skele­ton move­ment.

The ex­cep­tional fin­ishes of the 9440 MC are all the more re­mark­able be­cause the semi-skele­tonised bridges on the back of the move­ment cre­ate a star shape, thus echo­ing the watch’s lu­nar and ter­res­trial char­ac­ter on the case back. 星 象主题是今年日内瓦国际高级钟表展上的一 大亮点,卡地亚、梵克雅宝、朗格及积家等 品牌都推出了让人惊叹的星象主题腕表杰作。


卡地亚这次在地球与月亮之间游走,带来了 Ro­tonde de Cartier“地球与月亮”陀飞轮双时区 月相腕表,并以大胆的显示方式,呈现陀飞轮与月 相显示这两大复杂功能。独到的地球设计与陀飞轮 化身的月亮,一起架构出宇宙星空,四周环绕立体 镂雕的罗马数字时标。

这款陀飞轮双时区月相腕表结合了陀飞轮、 按需月相显示和第二时区显示功能,设计繁复。

陀飞轮装置为复杂功能,只有非常少数的制 表大师方能掌握其制作的专业技术。陀飞轮的主要 作用是当腕表处于垂直状态时,抵消地心引力产 生的影响。

陀飞轮突破了单纯的机械功能,融入的月相 显示功能不但有独特的显示方式,而且仅应佩戴 者要求才会显现,展示了具有双重革新性的技术 创意。触动表壳侧面4时位置按钮,就能启动一 扇遮窗隐藏部分陀飞轮框架,由此形成月牙。腕 表以一枚24小时指示盘显示第二时区, 这一复 杂的转盘显示装置,专为9440 MC型机芯重新设 计打造。机芯背部的半镂空表桥呈星形设计,令 此机芯的修饰工艺更显精美绝伦。闪耀于表背的 星辰,与这只珍贵时计表盘上的月亮和地球遥相 辉映。

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