“We first com­press and then de­hy­drate the watermelon in a process that pro­duces a red colour and tex­ture that is very close to that of raw tuna.”

ZbBZ (Singapore) - - GOURMET 饕餮 -

替代生鱼的不只是水果蔬菜,也有餐馆以贝壳类海鲜取代生鱼。喜来登酒店中餐馆李白今年主打的“龙虾捞起”,以汆烫过的龙虾搭配油炸芋头、番薯、白萝卜、红萝卜、柚子等。

丽思卡尔顿美年酒店才翻新的中餐馆夏苑,今年推出的“三文鱼子冻响螺捞起”,里头的响螺也是煮熟的。夏苑餐馆总厨张肇刚对这道“鱼生”倾注特别多心思,响螺先蒸一小时,再用鲍鱼汁卤,让响螺更入味。

张肇刚说,响螺有聚宝盆的好意头,这种进口自越南的活海鲜每公斤要200 多元。蒸过的响螺,张肇刚再以南非鲍鱼、老母鸡、鸡脚、金华火腿等材料焖制7小时,给响螺增味。他说,“三文鱼子冻响螺捞起”还有一特殊之处,就是自家秘制的米醋腌木瓜丝,借着这个和酸柑汁混合捞生的甜蜜,味道上有酸有甜,刺激味蕾。

吉真宾乐雅酒店四川豆花饭庄今年主打健康年菜,粤菜执行总厨梁永祥一早构思的“黑松露养生鱼生”以天然健康风格出发,当中有20 种不同的蔬菜及配料,包括名贵的黑松露、松茸、甜菜根、各种沙拉叶菜等,并以烘烤的米饭、豆酥、自制松露油,给一道纤维、营养一样丰富的蔬菜鱼生缔造多层次口感和芳香。饭庄也推出白松露的选择,不过得提早两天预定。

What is “lo hei” with­out the prospect of fish i n the catch?

Af­ter the Na­tional En­vi­ron­ment Agency banned the sale of raw fish dishes pre­pared with fresh­wa­ter fish in Novem­ber, chefs across Sin­ga­pore got busy. They knew that din­ers were spooked by re­ports of se­ri­ous bac­te­rial in­fec­tions from con­sum­ing raw fresh­wa­ter fish and may likely err on the safe side and avoid all kinds of raw fish. Soon af­ter, Good­wood Park Ho­tel be­came the first ho­tel in Sin­ga­pore to ex­clude all raw fish from its Chi­nese New Year menu.

“Al­though the ho­tel’s yusheng is not made from fresh­wa­ter fish, we de­cided to re­frain from sell­ing raw fish in the in­ter­est of con­sumer health,” said the ho­tel’s spokesper­son.

The ho­tel, known f or its in­no­va­tive and re­fresh­ing takes on tra­di­tional dishes each time the fes­tive sea­son rolls around, has de­liv­ered im­pres­sively on this chal­lenge. Its Chi­nese restau­rants, Min Jiang and Min Jiang at OneNorth, have come up with three new lo hei dishes this year that are free of raw fish: Crispy Salmon Skin Lo Hei, Fruity Lo Hei With Ba­con And White Truf­fle Oil, and Crispy Sil­ver Bait Fish With Mock Tuna Lo Hei.

Of the three, the most in­no­va­tive has to be the sil­ver bait dish con­cocted by mas­ter chef Chan Hwan Kee of Min Jiang. The mock tuna is not made of gluten but from slices of watermelon. “We first com­press and then de­hy­drate the watermelon in a process that pro­duces a red colour and tex­ture that i s very close to that of raw tuna,” Chan ex­plains. “Then, we cre­ate more tex­ture i n the dish us­ing deep-fried white­bait, fried yam and sweet potato strips, salad l eaves, j uli­enned car­rot and radish, fly­ing fish roe, wasabi ebiko (prawn roe), jel­ly­fish, French chives, Bud­dha’s hand citron and pomelo be­fore dress­ing ev­ery­thing up in our se­cret sweet sauce and lime juice for a sweet, tangy and re­fresh­ing feel in the mouth.”

The other cre­ation by Chan, the Crispy Salmon Skin Lo Hei, is like a salad topped with deep fried salmon skin.

“The salmon skin, which i s spe­cially im­ported from Nor­way, is first mar­i­nated and then deep­fried. This yusheng dish i s also dif­fer­ent be­cause we have used less veg­etable strips in the dish in favour of more salad greens, such as wild arugula, en­dive l eaves, baby radish and sweet ro­maine hearts. The idea is to cre­ate a healthy and nat­u­ral dish. For the sauce, we have re­frained from us­ing the tra­di­tional plum sauce. In­stead, we use a sauce from the re­duc­tion of ap­ple juice to add in­ter­est to the dish. Or­ange peel, crack­ers, crushed peanut, sesame and pine seeds all cre­ate greater tex­ture.”

Chan feels that do­ing away with raw fish is a good move. “While per­haps it does not mat­ter to you, your guests may still have reser­va­tions [about con­sum­ing

Com­pressed watermelon slices are used in­stead of raw fish in Min Jiang’s lo hei dish. (Photo: 叶振忠

)

Li Bai’s lob­ster Loh Hei Plat­ter fea­tures slices of blanched Bos­ton lob­ster atop an ex­u­ber­ant mix of in­gre­di­ents such as yam, sweet potato, white radish, car­rot, pick­led ginger and pomelo.

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