厨界女神KITCHEN GOD­DESS

被誉为“美女厨师”、“厨界女神”,台湾名厨陈岚舒清秀瘦削的外表下,有对美食的坚持,以及对厨艺的精益求精。Be­neath Tai­wanese chef Chen Lan­shu’s gen­tle ap­pear­ance lies a steely com­mit­ment to ex­cel­lence in her cook­ing

ZbBZ (Singapore) - - IN CONVERSATION - TEXT 黄亿敏 / NG YIMIN PHOTO LE MOUT

苗条纤细、肌肤白皙的陈岚舒不像名厨;秀外慧中的气质,比较像执教鞭的文学老师——这是她给人的第一印象。她形容自己餐馆的厨房像学校,团队不断学习进步,身为名厨的她,也教会食客关于美食的精彩。

36岁的陈岚舒是台湾台中知名高级法式餐馆乐沐(Le Mout)的主厨兼创办人,2008年创业以来,佳绩连连。

陈岚舒是国立台湾大学外文系毕业生,后远赴法国追求美食梦,到Le Cor­don Bleu、Fer­randi School of Culi­nary Art­s等名校学习,先后与多位名厨共事,如Thomas Keller、Jean-Fran­cois Piege等。陈岚舒以独特创意和“尊重食材”的理念,擅长将天然色泽与甜味,花香与果香入菜,加 上诗意般的摆饰,很快声名鹊起。

2012年,乐沐通过Re­lais & Chateaux的评选,成为全台唯一通过评鉴的“杰出餐馆”。陈岚舒更是全球首位以法式料理受Re­lais & Chateaux肯定为“杰出主厨”的华人,同时也是全世界第一位获得该荣誉的亚裔女厨。2014年,她获“亚洲50最佳餐馆”颁发的“亚洲最佳女厨师”奖,锦上添花。

谈到成功的秘诀,她说:“从一开始,我重视如何管理厨房,让它能自己运转,团队的配合很重要。在我的厨房工作,像学校一样,我培训团队,让他们有能力自己处理,即使我不在,团队也能随时应变。”

在一定程度上,她也教会台湾食客什么是 法国料理,什么叫高级餐饮。“十年前,台湾人以为法国料理就是鹅肝、鸭胸肉和黑松露。人们对高级餐饮的概念不熟悉,服务人员也缺乏相关经验,从菜色食材到训练服务生,都得不断教导。”

家庭和事业两难,女厨师在这方面的困惑,比男厨师多。陈岚舒认为女性有多种角色,是妻子也是母亲,在职场上也要有所发挥,但可“更有智慧去协调”。

她说:“有的女厨选择换工作,有的要更多家庭时间,这是人生选择,只要认定选择,适当调整,就能分配时间,找出平衡方法。很多是阶段性的,我刚创业时投入百分百的时间和精力。我也曾天真地以为餐馆可以很快开分店,但现在回头看,很多事没有沉淀过,就无法达成。”

现在她虽然得兼顾事业和家庭,却胜任愉快。这一趟来新加坡是和丈夫——法国著名奢华陶瓷品牌丽固(Le­gle)合伙人张聪,以及7个月大的儿子一起来的。丽固与新加坡米其林二星餐馆Odet­te主厨Julien Roy­er合作推出全新的陶瓷系列作品Es­pace。

厨师的改变及成长,能给食客带来不同的惊喜。“现在资讯发达,美食博客一大堆。然而,食物的味道是最直接的,人们觉得好吃,就能接受,并去了解你的饮食概念,但这需要很多时间。乐沐定期邀请米其林名厨担任客座厨师,让更多人认识法国料理。”

陈岚舒也希望食客能重新认识食物的味道。她说:“经过面包店时,你会不会被香味吸引?那或许是你的童年回忆,却可能是人工香草的味道。

“你看,婴儿在学吃固体食物如当季蔬菜泥时,你给什么他吃什么,他们能欣赏食材最纯粹的味道。如何选择食材,欣赏食物的天然原味,也是我想教导孩子的。”

社交媒体普及,让更多人认识各类美食,餐饮业从中受益,但资讯多得杂乱。陈岚舒属80后的年轻厨师,却自认老派,不将社交媒体平台当个人宣传管道,公私分明。她说:“虽然没时间去过滤众多的资讯或网友留言,但我的耳朵愿意聆听,心房也敞开,可接受不同想法。”

媒体常赋予她“美女厨师”“厨界女神”等美誉,她笑着透露:“或许是这样,一些人对餐馆产生了幻想,美化了餐馆厨房工作,以为厨师是坐在那里作画。虽然不像电视实况节目《地狱厨房》,但厨房忙起来像打仗。”

虽然说厨师的工作时间长,但随着时代改变,陈岚舒认为,厨师仍能取得生活及工作的平衡。她的方法就是,不断学习,激发创意,从音乐,或每晚睡前阅读的书籍,获取灵感。

“我觉得,懂得欣赏生活的细节,才能成为更好的厨师。因此,我重视学习,会安排团队成员一起出国旅行,浸濡学习,像之前我们来新加坡到Odette、Cor­ner House、Les Amis等餐馆,或到海外不同餐馆实习受训。完成学习后,我要求他们演示汇报,设计新菜品。虽然有人说我这样做不符合商业考量,但厨师丰富生活及厨房经验,有助创意。”

If you mis­take de­mure Tai­wanese chef Chen Lan­shu for a lit­er­a­ture teacher, you are not alone. Although, it is not tech­ni­cally wrong to call her a teacher — the 36-year-old ex­ec­u­tive chef and founder of renowned fine-din­ing French restau­rant Le Mout, in Taichung, de­scribes her kitchen as a school where her team is con­stantly learn­ing and im­prov­ing them­selves.

Out­side the kitchen, she has also worked tire­lessly to ed­u­cate din­ers in Tai­wan about French cui­sine and fine din­ing. She said: “Ten years ago, peo­ple thought French cui­sine was all about foie gras, duck breast and black truf­fles. They were not fa­mil­iar with the con­cept of fine din­ing and the ser­vice per­son­nel also lacked rel­e­vant ex­pe­ri­ence. I went through a pe­riod of time where I had to con­stantly of­fer guid­ance on things like in­gre­di­ents and train­ing front-of-house per­son­nel.”

She gave this in­ter­view while she was in Sin­ga­pore with her hus­band, brand part­ner of famed French lux­ury ceram­ics brand Le­gle, and their seven-month-old son. Le­gle has teamed up with Julien Royer, ex­ec­u­tive chef of lo­cal Miche­lin two-starred restau­rant Odette, to launch a new ceram­ics col­lec­tion called Es­pace.

Chen grad­u­ated from Na­tional Tai­wan Uni­ver­sity with a de­gree in for­eign lan­guages and then trav­elled to France in pur­suit of her dreams, train­ing at famed schools like Le Cor­don Bleu and Fer­randi School of Culi­nary Arts, and sub­se­quently work­ing un­der fa­mous chefs like Thomas Keller and Jean-Fran­cois Piege. She founded Le Mout in 2008.

Her culi­nary prin­ci­ple is to re­spect the in­gre­di­ents that she is work­ing with, com­bin­ing the nat­u­ral colours and flavours of the in­gre­di­ents with the fra­grance of lo­cally sourced fruits and flow­ers in her dishes. This, to­gether with her artis­tic plat­ing meth­ods, helped her to quickly make a name for her­self on her de­but.

Le Mout has not only won ac­co­lades in Tai­wan; it also be­came the only restau­rant in the coun­try to be ad­mit­ted to Re­lais & Chateaux in 2012, mak­ing Chen the first Chi­nese chef work­ing in French cui­sine as well as the first fe­male Asian chef to be recog­nised by this col­lec­tion of gourmet restau­rants and lux­ury ho­tels. And in 2014, she earned an­other feather in her cap when she was named Best Fe­male Chef by Asia’s 50 Best Restau­rants.

On the se­cret to her suc­cess, she said: “From the very be­gin­ning, I placed a strong em­pha­sis on kitchen man­age­ment and made sure that the kitchen was able to run on its own. Team­work is very im­por­tant but my team mem­bers are also trained to know how to han­dle mat­ters in­de­pen­dently. This way, the team will be able to deal with any sit­u­a­tion even when I am not around.”

Be­cause of her grace­ful ap­pear­ance and svelte frame, she has of­ten been given la­bels like “chef beauty” and “god­dess of the culi­nary world” by the me­dia. How­ever, be­ing a fe­male chef meant fac­ing greater chal­lenges in find­ing work-life bal­ance com­pared to her male coun­ter­parts. She said: “When I started my busi­ness, I put in 100 per cent of my time and en­ergy, naively be­liev­ing I’d soon be able to open a sec­ond out­let. Look­ing back now, I re­alise that some things don’t hap­pen be­fore they’re sup­posed to; things hap­pen in their own time.”

To­day, bal­anc­ing the de­mands of ca­reer and fam­ily is some­thing that comes nat­u­rally to her.

Although a chef’s work­ing hours are long, she tries to carve out some times for her­self to rest and recharge, and fire up her in­spi­ra­tion for new cre­ations. She likes to read be­fore turn­ing in for the night and also lis­tens to mu­sic.

“I feel that one can only be­come a bet­ter chef if you learn how to ap­pre­ci­ate the de­tails in life,” she says, adding that she and her team travel over­seas to­gether for culi­nary im­mer­sion, and they also train at var­i­ous restau­rants abroad.

“Af­ter they com­plete their train­ing, I ask them to turn in a re­port in the form of a new dish. Some have said my ap­proach is not a very com­mer­cially vi­able, but chefs who en­rich their life and kitchen ex­pe­ri­ences be­come more cre­ative.”

In­fini by chef Chen Lan­shu

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