当川菜遇上鸡尾酒SETTING A HIGH BAR

鸡尾酒佐餐,成了一种时髦,比起葡萄酒,它多了一份新鲜与好玩。大华银行大厦的川菜馆四川豆花饭庄近期翻新,增设了鸡尾酒酒吧,带来具有川味的酒品。The re­vamped Si Chuan Dou Hua at UOB Plaza 1 boasts a new bar that of­fers unique cock­tails and snacks with a Sichuan twist

ZbBZ (Singapore) - - IN SIGHT - TEXT 黄亿敏/ NG YIMIN PHO­TOG­RA­PHY 龙国雄

到 大华银行大厦60楼的四川豆花饭庄,可一边吃饭喝鸡尾酒,一边欣赏城市美景。刚斥资百万新元装修的餐馆,在入口处新设了鸡尾酒酒吧川Chuan @ The Six­ti­eth,供应手工精酿鸡尾酒和啤酒。

号称为新加坡中餐馆中地点最高的鸡尾酒吧,川Chuan @ The Six­ti­eth给美酒配美食的用餐体验,带来新高度。

“川”字代表川水,鸡尾酒是一种饮料;“川”字的三笔画也代表着鸡尾酒的三种成分,即以朗姆酒、琴酒、龙舌兰、伏特加、威士忌、白兰地等烈酒或葡萄酒作为基酒,再配以果汁、蛋清、苦精等其他辅助材料,并加调味剂如糖水等混合调制。

这里的手工精酿鸡尾酒,由本地知名、经验丰富的调酒师钟岳翔设计。他选用新颖食材,彰显四 川豆花饭庄的餐饮特色,如四川胡椒子、枸杞子、豆花、中国茶等等。这些鸡尾酒的组合如Dragon’s Breath,以伏特加加入四川辣椒及胡椒子、樱桃番茄、柠檬汁等;Silk Road­是波本威士忌加四川豆花自制的豆奶、鲜橙汁等,口味独一无二。

酒吧的下酒小吃,别具风味,皆是独特的川菜滋味。蒜香牛柳粒、重庆辣子鸡、夫妻肺片等。不

知如何配菜,不妨参考菜单上的建议,如喝着Silk Road时,配搭四川泡菜。

钟岳翔说:“吃着冷菜时,我喜欢喝琴酒;吃着炝黄瓜条时,我则建议喝Shiso Blos­som,这是琴酒加黄瓜、柠檬,非常清凉。以鸡尾酒佐菜,放在主食前后都可以,我建议重口味配重口味,如夫妇肺片带有辣味,配喝带有柠檬酸味的Ori­en­tal Mist,天衣无缝。”

中餐馆开酒吧,不只是为了追赶饮食潮流,对四川豆花饭庄来说,也有另一层意义,象征餐馆的成长及改变。

创办于1996年的四川豆花饭庄,这些年来让新加坡人进一步认识川菜。作为中国八大菜系之一,川菜百菜百味,不只有麻辣,而以厚、重、广、浓、香著称。豆花饭庄作为先行者,逐渐把川菜做起来,且在不偏离传统口味的基础上适度调整,使之更符合本地人的饮食习惯。

今年正好是四川豆花饭庄成立第21年,掌管四川豆花饭庄的泛太平洋酒店集团执行董事黄玮玲说:“按西方传统,21岁生日相当于‘成人’,可以获得开启人生之门的钥匙。饭庄21岁了,现在可以‘喝酒’了。”

除了增设酒吧,翻新后的餐馆让人耳目一新。对比以前的设计,熟客的第一反应就是:更宽大了。

黄玮玲说:“新设计走简约路线,你看我们连桌布都不用,但少即是多,简化人生,才能从生命中收获更多。食客形形色色,有谈生意的商人、外国游客,带着孩子来吃饭的年轻妈妈,或一个人用餐的上班族,客似云来,大家边吃饭边欣赏辽阔的远方景色,心旷神怡,同时也有在家用餐的舒适及自在。”

Turn­ing 21 is a mile­stone that marks one’s com­ing of age. So to cel­e­brate its 21st an­niver­sary, Si Chuan Dou Hua restau­rant has un­der­gone a re­vamp and added a new cock­tail bar to its premises on Level 60 of UOB Plaza.

Touted as Sin­ga­pore’s high­est cock­tail bar, Chuan @ The Six­ti­eth aims to take the din­ing ex­pe­ri­ence to new heights, of­fer­ing spe­cially con­cocted cock­tails that com­ple­ment the menu.

Wee Wei Ling, ex­ec­u­tive di­rec­tor of the Si Chuan Dou Hua chain, quips: “The 21st birth­day marks one’s en­try into adult­hood. Si Chuan Dou Hua is 21 and can now legally ‘drink’.”

A lot of thought has gone into the name. The Chi­nese char­ac­ter “chuan” stands for “river” or “wa­ter”, which syncs with what a bar does — serv­ing plenty of drinks. The three strokes that make up the char­ac­ter also rep­re­sent the three com­po­nents of a cock­tail: the base liquor such as rum, gin, tequila, vodka, whiskey, brandy or grape wine; sup­ple­men­tary in­gre­di­ents like fruit juice, egg white and an­gos­tura bit­ters; and flavour­ings like sugar syrup.

In keep­ing with the theme at Si Chuan Dou Hua, the be­spoke cock­tails here in­cor­po­rate in­gre­di­ents found on its menu, such as the Sichuan pep­per­corn, goji berry, soft bean­curd and Chi­nese tea. For ex­am­ple, Dragon’s Breath is made with vodka, Sichuan pep­per­corn, cherry tomato and le­mon juice, while the Silk Road is cre­ated us­ing bour­bon whiskey, home­made soy milk and orange juice.

Drinks aside, the bar snacks have also been given a Sichuan spin. Items in­clude stir-fried gar­lic beef, spicy Chongqing chicken and sliced beef and tripe in chilli sauce. The menu makes help­ful pair­ing sug­ges­tions too, such as Sichuan pick­led veg­eta­bles with the Silk Road cock­tail.

The cock­tails are de­signed by home-grown mixol­o­gist An­thony Zhong, who can be counted on to dish out good ad­vice.

“Cock­tails can be taken either be­fore or af­ter the main course. I rec­om­mend pair­ing strongly fla­vored cock­tails with dishes with stronger flavours. For ex­am­ple, the sliced beef and tripe in chilli sauce is a per­fect match with the le­mon-fla­vored Ori­en­tal Mist,” he says.

His per­sonal favourite pair­ing? “I like to have gin with the cold dishes. The mar­i­nated chilled cu­cum­ber with dried chilli go well with Shiso Blos­som, a re­fresh­ing cock­tail made with gin, cu­cum­ber and le­mon.” The bar is yet an­other bold step taken by the Chi­nese restau­rant chain. Mar­i­nated chilled Si Chuan Dou Hua has a cu­cum­ber with dried chilli. rep­u­ta­tion for in­no­va­tion, such Sliced beef and as serv­ing novel dishes like puf­fer tripe in chilli fish dim sum. sauce.

It is also cred­ited with help­ing to pro­mote a bet­ter un­der­stand­ing of Sichuan cui­sine among Sin­ga­pore­ans. One of China’s eight ma­jor cuisines, Sichuan food is not just spicy and tongue-numb­ing. It is also known for a di­verse ar­ray of strong flavours and aro­mas.

Si Chuan Dou Hua’s suc­cess lies in how it has man­aged to adapt Sichuan cui­sine to lo­cal tastes while pre­serv­ing its tra­di­tional flavours. The re­cent re­vamp fol­lows the same phi­los­o­phy. While the in­te­ri­ors ap­pear big­ger and brighter, the restau­rant’s DNA re­mains in­tact.

“The new de­sign is more min­i­mal­ist. See? We don't even use table­cloths here any­more. But less is more,” says Wee, who is also an ex­ec­u­tive di­rec­tor at the Pan Pa­cific Ho­tels Group.

The clien­tele at the restau­rant might be highly di­verse — busi­ness­men deep in deal-mak­ing, young moth­ers with kids in tow and salary­men din­ing alone. But she notes: “In­side the busy restau­rant, every­one is re­laxed as he or she ad­mires panoramic views of the cityscape. There is that sense of ease and com­fort that one has when din­ing at home.”

Chuan @ The Six­ti­eth / Si Chuan Dou Hua 80 Raf­fles Place, #60-01 UOB Plaza 1 Sin­ga­pore 048624 +65-65356006

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