The Power Of X

时尚X之法则

ZbBZ (Singapore) - - CONTENT - TEXT LIM FONG WEI / 林方伟

As more fash­ion la­bels and de­sign­ers con­tinue to part­ner up, the trend of col­lab­o­ra­tions is show­ing no sign of slow­ing down 近来,时尚品牌与设计师频频出手搞协作,这股风气并延烧至家具界和文具界,激荡出更多创意火花。

In 2004, Karl Lager­feld part­nered fast-fash­ion gi­ant H&M to cre­ate a col­lec­tion, which promptly sold out and started a trend of high-low pair­ings. Now, 13 years later, de­signer col­lab­o­ra­tions are still in style and th­ese re­tail unions have gone be­yond bring­ing luxe fash­ion to the masses.

Th­ese days, col­lab­o­ra­tions be­tween de­sign­ers and brands or be­tween la­bels have be­come a shrewd way for com­pa­nies to in­no­vate, cre­ate buzz, ex­pand their reach and grow their mar­ket share. The re­cent much-hyped Louis Vuit­ton X Supreme col­lec­tion is a case in point. Both are cov­etable la­bels in their own right that have suc­ceeded in reel­ing in cus­tomers out­side their usual base through the col­lab­o­ra­tion. In a sur­prise move to bridge its brand to mil­len­ni­als, Swiss haute jew­elry house Chopard has cho­sen to work not with a de­signer per se, but with Ri­hanna, a hugely in­flu­en­tial fash­ion-for­ward pop diva with in­cred­i­ble fash­ion cred. In­ter­est­ingly, Ikea, the Swedish fast fur­ni­ture brand has also part­nered up with Hay, a hip fur­ni­ture house with strong ap­peal to mil­len­ni­als.

自卡尔·拉格斐在2004年和快时尚品牌H&M合作,粉碎高端与快时尚的界线,缔造秒杀销售神话之后,设计师与品牌,或品牌与品牌的跨界协作已成了近10多年来,生活与时尚业界屡试不败的王道。今年路易威登与潮牌Supre­me引爆的抢购风暴更证明了协作的超强法力。从种种迹象可见,在未来几年,协作风将越吹越猛。老牌为吸引和创造千禧一代客群更得从协作下手。今年,瑞士奢华珠宝品牌萧邦选择跟流行乐天后蕾哈娜推出协作首饰系列,展示品牌向千禧一代市场伸出暖呼呼的手的意愿。有趣的是,不只时尚界,连快家具品牌宜家也首次跟另一家深受千禧族群喜爱的家具品牌Hay跳双人舞。看来这场时尚与生活的协作舞会会越来越精彩。

Ri­hanna X Chopard Gems Gone Wild 后见后

One is a pop princess, the other a jew­ellery queen. When the two di­vas met, cre­ative sparks flew. Ri­hanna, known for her inim­itable style, showed off her work with the Swiss lux­ury brand at Cannes Film Fes­ti­val in May. The Ri­hanna Loves Chopard Haute Joail­lerie Col­lec­tion, code­signed with Caro­line Scheufele, Chopard’s artis­tic di­rec­tor and co-pres­i­dent, is said to be in­spired by the lush green­ery and carnival-like vibe of Ri­hanna’s home­town, Bar­ba­dos.

It in­cludes a pair of 19-carat di­a­mond earclips and a pair of chan­de­lier ear­rings. The lat­ter are in­spired by the trop­i­cal flow­ers in Bar­ba­dos and are crafted with gem­stones such as ru­bies and pink and yellow sap­phires. Dark green porce­lain was con­trasted with 18K rose gold in a rein­ter­pre­ta­tion of Chopard’s sig­na­ture chain-link Ice Cube mo­tif.

The min­i­mal­ist ge­om­e­try shapes and sharp, clean lines are a nod to Ri­hanna’s own bold fash­ion style.

一个是西方流行音乐的天后,另一个是瑞士珠宝的天后。后不见后?在越来越需要年轻化的老牌珠宝业,后需见后。穿衣一向特立独行的蕾哈娜今年5月在康城影展揭示她与瑞士珠宝精表品牌 萧邦的合作。她与品牌总裁兼创意总监Caro­line Scheufele设计的两款珠宝系列“蕾哈娜爱萧邦高定珠宝”,各由一对19克拉钻石耳坠与一对彩宝“吊灯”垂饰耳环组成——后者由花团锦簇的粉红与黄色蓝宝石、红宝石等彩色宝石构成,向蕾哈娜家乡巴巴多斯(Bar­ba­dos)的热情花卉致敬。另一款“蕾哈娜爱萧邦珠宝”系列则用丛林深绿色陶瓷与18K玫瑰金重新诠释萧邦签名式的“冰块”串链设计,俐落、简约的几何图体现出蕾哈娜所代表的超现代时尚感。

Onit­suka Tiger X An­drea Pom­pilio Less Is More 极简极繁之间

Onit­suka Tiger has teamed up once again with Ital­ian de­signer An­drea Pom­pilio to pro­duce a 2017 fall/win­ter col­lec­tion. The range, themed “the new street preppy”, gives the pop­u­lar Ja­panese sneaker brand a fresh im­age. Five Onit­suka Tiger shoe de­signs were given a makeover, in­clud­ing the Cal­i­for­nia 78 AP and the MNR AP hik­ing boots, both from its col­lec­tions in the 1970s.

The for­mer uses syn­thetic rub­ber to seam­lessly con­nect the vamp with the sole with­out a sin­gle trace of stitch­ing or Onit­suka Tiger’s sig­na­ture stripes. The lat­ter com­bines the look of leather shoes with hik­ing boots and has been up­dated with fringe and studs, along with chunky soles that are on trend now. Who says a tiger can’t change its stripes?

提起Onit­suka Tiger,必联想到它的流线条?2017年秋冬,此日本人气运动鞋牌与意大利设计师An­drea Pom­pil­io的协作系列“街服也笔挺”将让你改观。设计师将书院生的笔挺装束融入街头时尚,创造出一系列男女秋冬服饰。单是运动鞋,便

从品牌的鞋库取出五款型号,注入新的生命。整体设计在极简与极繁之间游走。最亮眼的两款是1970年代更新版跑步鞋Cal­i­for­nia 78 AP及同年代更新版登山鞋MNR AP。前者采用跟鞋底同色人造胶质面料装饰鞋帮,鞋面不见一条缝线也没品牌签名式的流线条,让鞋底到鞋面完全一气呵成,极为抢眼。后者则将皮鞋的元素注入登山鞋,加入皮革流苏与饰钉装饰,让老实的登山鞋看起来更为华丽。习惯了扁瘦鞋底与鞋型的粉丝要开始迎接粗厚鞋底的潮流了。这款MNR AP鞋底超厚,鞋边加入一圈同色胶质装饰,让鞋底看起来厚上加厚。这次的合作,让Onit­suka Tiger的形象耳目一新,可说是成功的。协作本就该如此。

Uniqlo X JW An­der­son Ba­sics With A Twist 没那么简单

Ja­panese ca­su­al­wear gi­ant Uniqlo has picked Ir­ish-born de­signer JW An­der­son for its lat­est highly an­tic­i­pated col­lab­o­ra­tion, which launches here on Sept 22. The 32-year-old, who made his de­but in 2008, is cur­rently one of the hottest names in fash­ion. Be­sides de­sign­ing his own epony­mous la­bel, he is also the cre­ative di­rec­tor of Span­ish lux­ury la­bel Loewe.

The Uniqlo X JW An­der­son col­lec­tion com­prises 33 pieces for men and women, in­clud­ing coats, skirts and shirts, us­ing Uniqlo’s well-known smart fab­rics such as Heat­tech, (Left) JW An­der­son pays trib­ute to his Bri­tish her­itage through his tar­tan-print ap­parel and ac­ces­sories for Uniqlo. (Be­low) North­ern-Ir­ish fash­ion de­signer J W An­der­son, cur­rently the Cre­ative Di­rec­tor of Span­ish lux­ury brand Loewe is no stranger to col­lab­o­ra­tions. (Photo: Uniqlo) Ex­tra Fine Merino and Ex­tra Fine Cot­ton.

The range also fea­tures wind­break­ers, sweaters and cardi­gans with Fair Isle pat­terns, tar­tan back­packs and rain­bow scarves. An­der­son’s col­lab­o­ra­tion with Top­shop in 2012 was a huge hit. This one is ex­pected to be a win­ner too.

生于北爱尔兰,32岁的JW An­der­son 2008年出道,是近年极速上位的新一代设计师,除了以自己的名义推出品牌,也是Loewe品牌的创意总监,可谓当今时尚界倍受瞩目的红人。为此,JW An­der­son­与Uniqlo将在9月22日推出的2017年秋冬LifeWear协作被称为本季最让人期待的时尚盛事。系列由33件男女单品,有羽绒服、衬衫、T恤、毛衣等组成。为展现JW An­der­son­不列颠群岛(Bri­tish Isles)的出身,其中亮眼单品包括Uniqlo不常见的长风衣、苏格兰费尔岛(Fair Isles)传统风针织图毛衣和开襟毛衣、苏格兰格纹(tar­tan)软垫背包,以及彩虹线条围巾、T恤、高圆翻领卫衣等。这系列也将时尚设计与Uniqlo家喻户晓的精致智慧面料如保暖Heat­tech、超细致美利奴羊毛(Ex­tra Fine Merino),以及超细致棉布相结合,中看又中用。Uniqlo以往偏好法式时尚,与Ines De La Fres­sange和前爱马仕设计总监Christophe Le­maire有着长久的合作关系。这是品牌首次与英国设计师合作,把英式时 尚风融入产品,为此期待指数更高。An­der­son 2012年与另一高街时尚品牌TopShop推出协作系列,卖得满堂红,预计与Uniqlo的合作也将引发秒杀效应。

Supreme X Louis Vuit­ton Loud And Proud 潮服风暴

More than 1,000 peo­ple camped overnight out­side ION Or­chard to lay hands on the 350 pre-order items ahead of its Sin­ga­pore launch on July 14. This was a scene re­peated in other cities where the col­lec­tion was re­leased. In Tokyo, for in­stance, 7,500 fans queued overnight. The de­signs went on re­sale on­line soon af­ter, with eye-wa­ter­ing prices. A US$3,000 (S$4,080) Keepall 45 hand­bag, for in­stance, went for US$8,000, while a US$400 white T-shirt was priced at US$2,500.

The col­lec­tion marks the re­turn of con­spic­u­ous brand­ing: the red and black back­packs, clutches, hand­bags, lug­gage tags and peaked caps all star a mash-up of the Supreme logo with Louis Vuit­ton’s iconic mono­gram. With this ven­ture, the French mai­son

has found a new au­di­ence among the mil­len­ni­als, while the cult New York streetwear la­bel has gained a foothold among shop­pers who usu­ally pre­fer de­signer threads.

路易威登与纽约潮牌Supre­me的协作系列好不好看,有没有品位,见仁见智;但这次合作所引爆的抢购现象却是无可置疑的。早在新加坡7月14日开卖前一天,乌节ION商场外引来上千人通宵大排长龙, 争取350个预先登记购买产品的机会。外媒报道,在东京更有7500名粉丝漏夜排队抢购。货品狂风般被抢购一空后被放上网炒到数倍天价:一件3000多美元的Keepall 45手提包被炒到8000美元,连一件400多美元的l­o­go白T恤也被炒高4倍,以2500美元出售。这许久未见的抢购风暴对高端时尚市场无疑是一剂强心针。对时尚评家而言,路易威登与Supre­me的协作,引爆了大l­o­go的回潮。红黑两色的LV背包、手握包、手提袋、腰包、行李牌、鸭舌帽清一色印上斗大Supre­me一字。另外,其他的服饰也充斥着Supre­me与LV的商标,历历在目的皆是l­ogo。以往,各大高端时尚品牌都在竭力推广低调奢华,淡化八九十年代吸引暴发户、土包子的大商标设计。随着时尚消费群转向千禧一代,LV这次卖得满堂红的协作,以及这一两年,迪奥、Fendi、古驰等大牌在T台上大秀l­o­go是否预言:时尚界又将打回原形?

Hay X Ikea Built For Suc­cess 门当户对

Ikea is no stranger to col­lab­o­ra­tions, hav­ing worked with de­sign­ers such as Lon­don-based Ilse Craw­ford and Dutch­man Piet Hein Eek. Now, it has teamed up with a fur­ni­ture brand for the first time.

Dan­ish de­sign com­pany Hay, launched in 2003, has drawn its own loyal fol­low­ing with its unique colour pal­ette and mod­ern take on vin­tage fur­ni­ture styles.

The Hay X Ikea Yp­perlig col­lec­tion, to be re­leased next month, prom­ises func­tional de­signs at af­ford­able prices im­bued with the clean and thought­ful Scan­di­na­vian aes­thetic.

The line fea­tures more than 60 pieces of fur­ni­ture, light­ing and home ac­ces­sories such as vases, can­dle­hold­ers and blan­kets.

Key items in­clude a short cof­fee ta­ble with a black tray and and a sofa in­spired by a 1950s de­sign.

Hay also re­designed Ikea’s iconic blue and yellow Frakta shop­ping tote, pro­duc­ing it in colours such as for­est green, olive green and yellow and black.

宜家与个别设计师协作不是什么新闻,但宜家和另一名牌家具品牌合作却是头一遭的大事件。宜家在上一届“民主开放设计日”(Demo­cratic De­sign Day)宣布今年将与丹麦品牌Hay推出协作系列“Yp­perlig”,引起轰动。Hay在2003年创办,从一开始便以独具一格的颜色的使用与搭配,以及在设计上用当代的触觉诠释、创新1950、60年代的中世纪风北欧家具独步业界,赢得众多粉丝。“Yp­perlig”系列将由30多件家具与家饰品构成,从宜家初步公开的照片所见:结合黑托盘的矮咖啡桌、挂在门旁墙壁的深绿色置物镜子、翡翠绿烛台、用绳索捆绑的挂墙置物架等,件件都叫人耳目一新。近年,有大品牌推出向宜家蓝色购物袋“致敬”的天价包,Hay也采用让人意想不到的酒红、暗绿、橄榄绿三色重新演绎蓝购物袋,让这个家喻户晓的购物袋不论在颜值或气质都指数倍增。宜家透露“Yp­perlig”将在今年10月推出,家具协作是否也会引发抢购风潮?别人的说不准,但宜家这次晋升时尚级数的协作说不定会开先河。

Bynd Ar­ti­san X Olivia Lee Books Of Won­ders 书中自有黄金屋

Sin­ga­pore in­dus­trial de­signer Olivia Lee is giv­ing new mean­ing to the term “start­ing a new chap­ter”. The tal­ented 32-year-old worked with home-grown book­bind­ing and sta­tionery ate­lier Bynd Ar­ti­san to pro­duce a new range of items called Books Of Life. Six leather-bound “books” in dif­fer­ent sizes open to re­veal var­i­ous sur­prises. For in­stance, Book Of Dreams is a trans­par­ent money bank, Book Of Knowl­edge a mir­ror and the Book Of Wis­dom a mag­ni­fier.

Lee said: “The col­lec­tion is a love let­ter to the book form. It breathes new life into the archetype. To me, stacks of books on shelves is a sight to be­hold and will never go out of style be­cause books will al­ways be the car­ri­ers of mean­ings and de­pos­i­to­ries of the val­ues of our lives.”

Win­nie Chan, co-founder of Bynd Ar­ti­san, said the col­lec­tion pays trib­ute to the tra­di­tion of book­bind­ing in a cre­ative way.

“It’s smart to use book­bind­ing as the heart of the de­sign. It sig­nals that the col­lec­tion will grow and fea­ture more colours and fab­rics, fill­ing the shelves with more ‘books of life’,” she added. Un­like the ate­lier’s pre­vi­ous one-off joint ef­forts with other cre­atives, the Olivia Lee for Bynd Ar­ti­san col­lab­o­ra­tion looks set to be an on­go­ing project.

今年在米兰设计周大放异彩,备受国际媒体瞩目的新加坡女设计师李韵思(Olivia Lee)与本地奢华时尚文具皮革品牌Bynd Ar­ti­san合作,推出“生命之书”系列。六本大小不一的“书”采用皮革精装书的外型,但本本打开来都出人意料,惊喜连连。好比“梦之书”是透明扑满;“知识之书”是面自省的镜子;“智慧之书”是放大镜等。李韵思说:“这系列是给书籍的一封情书,为书注入新生命。我相信一个堆满书的书架将永不过时。因为书籍一直都会是传承生命意义,储存人生价值的宝库。”Bynd Ar­ti­san创办人之一曾薇薇说,这个协作不只向品牌的装订历史致敬,也为装订技艺找到创新的应用方式。她说:“采取书籍的设计形式很精明,表示这个系列能随着时间不断增加,加入更多不同的用途、颜色和面料,日久真能建立满架子的生命之书。这也突破了我们以往一次过的协作产品,延伸我们与设计师的合作关系。”

Ri­hanna launches the Ri­hanna Loves Chopard col­lec­tion in col­lab­o­ra­tion with the Swiss jew­elry house. (Photo: Chopard)

An­drea Pom­pilio gives the moun­taineer­ing and col­le­giate style a twist in his col­lab­o­ra­tion with Onit­suka Tiger. (Photo: Onit­suka Tiger)

An­drea Pom­pilio up­dates and in­no­vates Onit­suka Tiger shoes de­sign. (Photo: Onit­suka Tiger)

The Ri­hanna Loves Chopard Haute Joail­lerie col­lab­o­ra­tion pays trib­ute to her Bar­ba­dian roots. (Photo: Chopard)

Fanny pack or not, ev­ery­one wants a piece of the Supreme X Louis Vuit­ton col­lec­tion. (Photo: Louis Vuit­ton)

The Supreme X Louis Vuit­ton­col­lec­tion is this year's hottest fash­ion col­lab­o­ra­tion. (Photo: Louis Vuit­ton)

IKEA and Hay’s ea­gerly an­tic­i­pated Yp­perlig col­lec­tion will hit the stores in Oc­to­ber. (Photo: Ikea)

Sin­ga­pore de­signer Olivia Lee (left) col­lab­o­rates with Bynd Ar­ti­san to cre­ate the Books of Life col­lec­tion. On the right is brand co-owner Win­nie Chan. (Photo: 龙国雄)

Bynd Ar­ti­san's Books of Life is a col­lec­tion com­pris­ing of money-bank, leather-clutch, jew­elry box, etc. (Photo: 龙国雄)

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