The Power Of X
As more fashion labels and designers continue to partner up, the trend of collaborations is showing no sign of slowing down 近来，时尚品牌与设计师频频出手搞协作，这股风气并延烧至家具界和文具界，激荡出更多创意火花。
In 2004, Karl Lagerfeld partnered fast-fashion giant H&M to create a collection, which promptly sold out and started a trend of high-low pairings. Now, 13 years later, designer collaborations are still in style and these retail unions have gone beyond bringing luxe fashion to the masses.
These days, collaborations between designers and brands or between labels have become a shrewd way for companies to innovate, create buzz, expand their reach and grow their market share. The recent much-hyped Louis Vuitton X Supreme collection is a case in point. Both are covetable labels in their own right that have succeeded in reeling in customers outside their usual base through the collaboration. In a surprise move to bridge its brand to millennials, Swiss haute jewelry house Chopard has chosen to work not with a designer per se, but with Rihanna, a hugely influential fashion-forward pop diva with incredible fashion cred. Interestingly, Ikea, the Swedish fast furniture brand has also partnered up with Hay, a hip furniture house with strong appeal to millennials.
Rihanna X Chopard Gems Gone Wild 后见后
One is a pop princess, the other a jewellery queen. When the two divas met, creative sparks flew. Rihanna, known for her inimitable style, showed off her work with the Swiss luxury brand at Cannes Film Festival in May. The Rihanna Loves Chopard Haute Joaillerie Collection, codesigned with Caroline Scheufele, Chopard’s artistic director and co-president, is said to be inspired by the lush greenery and carnival-like vibe of Rihanna’s hometown, Barbados.
It includes a pair of 19-carat diamond earclips and a pair of chandelier earrings. The latter are inspired by the tropical flowers in Barbados and are crafted with gemstones such as rubies and pink and yellow sapphires. Dark green porcelain was contrasted with 18K rose gold in a reinterpretation of Chopard’s signature chain-link Ice Cube motif.
The minimalist geometry shapes and sharp, clean lines are a nod to Rihanna’s own bold fashion style.
一个是西方流行音乐的天后，另一个是瑞士珠宝的天后。后不见后？在越来越需要年轻化的老牌珠宝业，后需见后。穿衣一向特立独行的蕾哈娜今年5月在康城影展揭示她与瑞士珠宝精表品牌 萧邦的合作。她与品牌总裁兼创意总监Caroline Scheufele设计的两款珠宝系列“蕾哈娜爱萧邦高定珠宝”，各由一对19克拉钻石耳坠与一对彩宝“吊灯”垂饰耳环组成——后者由花团锦簇的粉红与黄色蓝宝石、红宝石等彩色宝石构成，向蕾哈娜家乡巴巴多斯（Barbados）的热情花卉致敬。另一款“蕾哈娜爱萧邦珠宝”系列则用丛林深绿色陶瓷与18K玫瑰金重新诠释萧邦签名式的“冰块”串链设计，俐落、简约的几何图体现出蕾哈娜所代表的超现代时尚感。
Onitsuka Tiger X Andrea Pompilio Less Is More 极简极繁之间
Onitsuka Tiger has teamed up once again with Italian designer Andrea Pompilio to produce a 2017 fall/winter collection. The range, themed “the new street preppy”, gives the popular Japanese sneaker brand a fresh image. Five Onitsuka Tiger shoe designs were given a makeover, including the California 78 AP and the MNR AP hiking boots, both from its collections in the 1970s.
The former uses synthetic rubber to seamlessly connect the vamp with the sole without a single trace of stitching or Onitsuka Tiger’s signature stripes. The latter combines the look of leather shoes with hiking boots and has been updated with fringe and studs, along with chunky soles that are on trend now. Who says a tiger can’t change its stripes?
提起Onitsuka Tiger，必联想到它的流线条？2017年秋冬，此日本人气运动鞋牌与意大利设计师Andrea Pompilio的协作系列“街服也笔挺”将让你改观。设计师将书院生的笔挺装束融入街头时尚，创造出一系列男女秋冬服饰。单是运动鞋，便
从品牌的鞋库取出五款型号，注入新的生命。整体设计在极简与极繁之间游走。最亮眼的两款是1970年代更新版跑步鞋California 78 AP及同年代更新版登山鞋MNR AP。前者采用跟鞋底同色人造胶质面料装饰鞋帮，鞋面不见一条缝线也没品牌签名式的流线条，让鞋底到鞋面完全一气呵成，极为抢眼。后者则将皮鞋的元素注入登山鞋，加入皮革流苏与饰钉装饰，让老实的登山鞋看起来更为华丽。习惯了扁瘦鞋底与鞋型的粉丝要开始迎接粗厚鞋底的潮流了。这款MNR AP鞋底超厚，鞋边加入一圈同色胶质装饰，让鞋底看起来厚上加厚。这次的合作，让Onitsuka Tiger的形象耳目一新，可说是成功的。协作本就该如此。
Uniqlo X JW Anderson Basics With A Twist 没那么简单
Japanese casualwear giant Uniqlo has picked Irish-born designer JW Anderson for its latest highly anticipated collaboration, which launches here on Sept 22. The 32-year-old, who made his debut in 2008, is currently one of the hottest names in fashion. Besides designing his own eponymous label, he is also the creative director of Spanish luxury label Loewe.
The Uniqlo X JW Anderson collection comprises 33 pieces for men and women, including coats, skirts and shirts, using Uniqlo’s well-known smart fabrics such as Heattech, (Left) JW Anderson pays tribute to his British heritage through his tartan-print apparel and accessories for Uniqlo. (Below) Northern-Irish fashion designer J W Anderson, currently the Creative Director of Spanish luxury brand Loewe is no stranger to collaborations. (Photo: Uniqlo) Extra Fine Merino and Extra Fine Cotton.
The range also features windbreakers, sweaters and cardigans with Fair Isle patterns, tartan backpacks and rainbow scarves. Anderson’s collaboration with Topshop in 2012 was a huge hit. This one is expected to be a winner too.
生于北爱尔兰，32岁的JW Anderson 2008年出道，是近年极速上位的新一代设计师，除了以自己的名义推出品牌，也是Loewe品牌的创意总监，可谓当今时尚界倍受瞩目的红人。为此，JW Anderson与Uniqlo将在9月22日推出的2017年秋冬LifeWear协作被称为本季最让人期待的时尚盛事。系列由33件男女单品，有羽绒服、衬衫、T恤、毛衣等组成。为展现JW Anderson不列颠群岛（British Isles）的出身，其中亮眼单品包括Uniqlo不常见的长风衣、苏格兰费尔岛（Fair Isles）传统风针织图毛衣和开襟毛衣、苏格兰格纹（tartan）软垫背包，以及彩虹线条围巾、T恤、高圆翻领卫衣等。这系列也将时尚设计与Uniqlo家喻户晓的精致智慧面料如保暖Heattech、超细致美利奴羊毛（Extra Fine Merino），以及超细致棉布相结合，中看又中用。Uniqlo以往偏好法式时尚，与Ines De La Fressange和前爱马仕设计总监Christophe Lemaire有着长久的合作关系。这是品牌首次与英国设计师合作，把英式时 尚风融入产品，为此期待指数更高。Anderson 2012年与另一高街时尚品牌TopShop推出协作系列，卖得满堂红，预计与Uniqlo的合作也将引发秒杀效应。
Supreme X Louis Vuitton Loud And Proud 潮服风暴
More than 1,000 people camped overnight outside ION Orchard to lay hands on the 350 pre-order items ahead of its Singapore launch on July 14. This was a scene repeated in other cities where the collection was released. In Tokyo, for instance, 7,500 fans queued overnight. The designs went on resale online soon after, with eye-watering prices. A US$3,000 (S$4,080) Keepall 45 handbag, for instance, went for US$8,000, while a US$400 white T-shirt was priced at US$2,500.
The collection marks the return of conspicuous branding: the red and black backpacks, clutches, handbags, luggage tags and peaked caps all star a mash-up of the Supreme logo with Louis Vuitton’s iconic monogram. With this venture, the French maison
has found a new audience among the millennials, while the cult New York streetwear label has gained a foothold among shoppers who usually prefer designer threads.
路易威登与纽约潮牌Supreme的协作系列好不好看，有没有品位，见仁见智；但这次合作所引爆的抢购现象却是无可置疑的。早在新加坡7月14日开卖前一天，乌节ION商场外引来上千人通宵大排长龙， 争取350个预先登记购买产品的机会。外媒报道，在东京更有7500名粉丝漏夜排队抢购。货品狂风般被抢购一空后被放上网炒到数倍天价：一件3000多美元的Keepall 45手提包被炒到8000美元，连一件400多美元的logo白T恤也被炒高4倍，以2500美元出售。这许久未见的抢购风暴对高端时尚市场无疑是一剂强心针。对时尚评家而言，路易威登与Supreme的协作，引爆了大logo的回潮。红黑两色的LV背包、手握包、手提袋、腰包、行李牌、鸭舌帽清一色印上斗大Supreme一字。另外，其他的服饰也充斥着Supreme与LV的商标，历历在目的皆是logo。以往，各大高端时尚品牌都在竭力推广低调奢华，淡化八九十年代吸引暴发户、土包子的大商标设计。随着时尚消费群转向千禧一代，LV这次卖得满堂红的协作，以及这一两年，迪奥、Fendi、古驰等大牌在T台上大秀logo是否预言：时尚界又将打回原形？
Hay X Ikea Built For Success 门当户对
Ikea is no stranger to collaborations, having worked with designers such as London-based Ilse Crawford and Dutchman Piet Hein Eek. Now, it has teamed up with a furniture brand for the first time.
Danish design company Hay, launched in 2003, has drawn its own loyal following with its unique colour palette and modern take on vintage furniture styles.
The Hay X Ikea Ypperlig collection, to be released next month, promises functional designs at affordable prices imbued with the clean and thoughtful Scandinavian aesthetic.
The line features more than 60 pieces of furniture, lighting and home accessories such as vases, candleholders and blankets.
Key items include a short coffee table with a black tray and and a sofa inspired by a 1950s design.
Hay also redesigned Ikea’s iconic blue and yellow Frakta shopping tote, producing it in colours such as forest green, olive green and yellow and black.
宜家与个别设计师协作不是什么新闻，但宜家和另一名牌家具品牌合作却是头一遭的大事件。宜家在上一届“民主开放设计日”（Democratic Design Day）宣布今年将与丹麦品牌Hay推出协作系列“Ypperlig”，引起轰动。Hay在2003年创办，从一开始便以独具一格的颜色的使用与搭配，以及在设计上用当代的触觉诠释、创新1950、60年代的中世纪风北欧家具独步业界，赢得众多粉丝。“Ypperlig”系列将由30多件家具与家饰品构成，从宜家初步公开的照片所见：结合黑托盘的矮咖啡桌、挂在门旁墙壁的深绿色置物镜子、翡翠绿烛台、用绳索捆绑的挂墙置物架等，件件都叫人耳目一新。近年，有大品牌推出向宜家蓝色购物袋“致敬”的天价包，Hay也采用让人意想不到的酒红、暗绿、橄榄绿三色重新演绎蓝购物袋，让这个家喻户晓的购物袋不论在颜值或气质都指数倍增。宜家透露“Ypperlig”将在今年10月推出，家具协作是否也会引发抢购风潮？别人的说不准，但宜家这次晋升时尚级数的协作说不定会开先河。
Bynd Artisan X Olivia Lee Books Of Wonders 书中自有黄金屋
Singapore industrial designer Olivia Lee is giving new meaning to the term “starting a new chapter”. The talented 32-year-old worked with home-grown bookbinding and stationery atelier Bynd Artisan to produce a new range of items called Books Of Life. Six leather-bound “books” in different sizes open to reveal various surprises. For instance, Book Of Dreams is a transparent money bank, Book Of Knowledge a mirror and the Book Of Wisdom a magnifier.
Lee said: “The collection is a love letter to the book form. It breathes new life into the archetype. To me, stacks of books on shelves is a sight to behold and will never go out of style because books will always be the carriers of meanings and depositories of the values of our lives.”
Winnie Chan, co-founder of Bynd Artisan, said the collection pays tribute to the tradition of bookbinding in a creative way.
“It’s smart to use bookbinding as the heart of the design. It signals that the collection will grow and feature more colours and fabrics, filling the shelves with more ‘books of life’,” she added. Unlike the atelier’s previous one-off joint efforts with other creatives, the Olivia Lee for Bynd Artisan collaboration looks set to be an ongoing project.
今年在米兰设计周大放异彩，备受国际媒体瞩目的新加坡女设计师李韵思（Olivia Lee）与本地奢华时尚文具皮革品牌Bynd Artisan合作，推出“生命之书”系列。六本大小不一的“书”采用皮革精装书的外型，但本本打开来都出人意料，惊喜连连。好比“梦之书”是透明扑满；“知识之书”是面自省的镜子；“智慧之书”是放大镜等。李韵思说：“这系列是给书籍的一封情书，为书注入新生命。我相信一个堆满书的书架将永不过时。因为书籍一直都会是传承生命意义，储存人生价值的宝库。”Bynd Artisan创办人之一曾薇薇说，这个协作不只向品牌的装订历史致敬，也为装订技艺找到创新的应用方式。她说：“采取书籍的设计形式很精明，表示这个系列能随着时间不断增加，加入更多不同的用途、颜色和面料，日久真能建立满架子的生命之书。这也突破了我们以往一次过的协作产品，延伸我们与设计师的合作关系。”
Rihanna launches the Rihanna Loves Chopard collection in collaboration with the Swiss jewelry house. (Photo: Chopard)
Andrea Pompilio gives the mountaineering and collegiate style a twist in his collaboration with Onitsuka Tiger. (Photo: Onitsuka Tiger)
Andrea Pompilio updates and innovates Onitsuka Tiger shoes design. (Photo: Onitsuka Tiger)
The Rihanna Loves Chopard Haute Joaillerie collaboration pays tribute to her Barbadian roots. (Photo: Chopard)
Fanny pack or not, everyone wants a piece of the Supreme X Louis Vuitton collection. (Photo: Louis Vuitton)
The Supreme X Louis Vuittoncollection is this year's hottest fashion collaboration. (Photo: Louis Vuitton)
IKEA and Hay’s eagerly anticipated Ypperlig collection will hit the stores in October. (Photo: Ikea)
Singapore designer Olivia Lee (left) collaborates with Bynd Artisan to create the Books of Life collection. On the right is brand co-owner Winnie Chan. (Photo: 龙国雄)
Bynd Artisan's Books of Life is a collection comprising of money-bank, leather-clutch, jewelry box, etc. (Photo: 龙国雄)