Cre­ative Alliance

创意联盟

ZbBZ (Singapore) - - CONTENT - TEXT NG KING KANG /吴庆康 PHOTO RICHARD MILLE

To woo a dis­cern­ing fe­male clien­tele, Richard Mille has roped in stars who em­body both the style and sub­stance of his in­no­va­tive watches 理查德米勒这些年来与无数运动名将和明星合作研发创新时计,合作伙伴当中有不少是女性。

Widely re­garded as a mav­er­ick in the in­dus­try, Richard Mille marches to the tick­ing of his own watches. But the 67-year-old is a staunch be­liever in col­lab­o­ra­tions that push his cut­ting-edge brand to ever greater heights.

For in­stance, his re­cent part­ner­ship with For­mula 1 race-car builder McLaren-Honda has yielded the world’s light­est me­chan­i­cal chrono­graph, made with a rev­o­lu­tion­ary ma­te­rial called graphene.

Mille is also known for work­ing with world­class sports fig­ures such as ten­nis Ace Rafael Nadal to put the time­pieces to the test in his re­lent­less pur­suit of tech­ni­cal per­fec­tion.

While Richard Mille time­pieces might have a rep­u­ta­tion for their ma­cho aes­thet­ics, the lux­ury Swiss la­bel has rolled out a col­lec­tion for women since 2005 that ri­vals the men’s range in both beauty and tech­ni­cal so­phis­ti­ca­tion.

It has also roped in fe­male celebri­ties that per­son­ify the strength and el­e­gance of its watches. Malaysia-born ac­tion star Michelle Yeoh was named its first woman brand part­ner

“The ladies’ watches are like clas­sic cars: They have the el­e­gant, sexy lines of beau­ti­ful body­work, but un­der­neath the hood, it’s all about tech­nique, power and pre­ci­sion.” — Richard Mille

in 2010. Sub­se­quently, golfers Cristie Kerr and Diana Luna, and eques­trian rider Jes­sica von Bre­dow also came on board. The lat­est high­pro­file woman to part­ner the brand is Aus­tralian ac­tress Mar­got Rob­bie, who will help de­sign a range of ladies’ watches with pro­ceeds go­ing to an Aus­tralian foun­da­tion.

In 2014, Richard Mille de­clared it was the “Year of the Woman” and beefed up its of­fer­ings for an in­creas­ingly dis­cern­ing fe­male clien­tele. To cel­e­brate their mul­ti­fac­eted iden­ti­ties, the ladies’ watches now come in a wide range of styles — from be­jew­elled tour­bil­lons to highly tech­ni­cal au­to­matic watches — as well as ma­te­ri­als. To­day, women’s lines make up nearly 25 per cent of its sales.

Break­through ma­te­ri­als are em­ployed to breath­tak­ing ef­fect. For in­stance, ul­tra-tough and scratch-re­sis­tant ce­ram­ics in var­i­ous hues are brushed and pol­ished to an ex­cep­tional matte fin­ish, of­fer­ing mod­ern women horo­log­i­cal gems that are both re­fined and prac­ti­cal.

Car­bon TPT ® , the sleek and tough ma­te­rial once ex­clu­sive to the men’s col­lec­tion, has also been given a fem­i­nine makeover in two new models for women — RM 07-01 and RM 037 Gem Set Car­bon TPT ® Set­ting gem­stones in NTPT car­bon is a first for the brand and a tech­ni­cal feat, as the sturdy ma­te­rial re­quires spe­cial milling ma­chines.

“I en­joy the fact that our ladies’ watches are very tech­ni­cal in spirit on the in­side, re­gard­less of how many di­a­monds or the beau­ti­ful lines they may pos­sess,” said Mille. “In this way, the ladies’ watches are like clas­sic cars: They have the el­e­gant, sexy lines of beau­ti­ful body­work, but un­der­neath the hood, it’s all about tech­nique, power and pre­ci­sion.”

This, he added, “is not only our idea of the per­fect ladies’ watch, it is also our idea of the per­fect lady”. 跨界合作在腕表界并非新鲜事,但要合作得完美无间并呈现出经典作品则非易事。被广泛视为业界奇葩的理查德米勒除了不断在自己的作品上创新之外,也经常跨界与他人合作,深信与其他业界强者的“四手联盟”能将作品水平推向高峰。

67岁的理查德米勒最新的合作伙伴是一级方程式的赛车制造者迈凯轮本田,两者的合作造就了由创新材质石墨烯打造的业界最轻机械计时腕表。理查德米勒也经常与世界级的运动好手如网球名将拉斐尔纳达尔合作,通过运动员在赛场上的动作把腕表的操作表现提升至完美境界。

虽然理查德米勒以男士腕表闻名,但品牌自2005年起就推出针对女性的复杂腕表,不论在造型设计或是机械表现上都不逊于男士腕表。这些年来理查德米勒也与无数名女人合作,国际巨星杨紫琼在2010年正式成为理查德米勒的挚友,接下来与理查德米勒共同在腕表界携手同行的还包括美国高球手克莉斯蒂柯儿与意大利的狄安娜璐娜,以及德国花样马术名将杰西卡。而最新的合作伙伴是与理查德米勒携手设计一系列女表并将收益捐赠给澳大利亚基金的澳大利亚女星玛格罗比。

理查德米勒曾将2014年定为“女士之年”,在设计和复杂性的选择上强化其女士腕表系列,自此其女士腕表除了镶嵌珍贵珠宝和采用创新材质,也不乏复杂功能如陀飞轮。至今,女士腕表占了理查德米勒营销的25%。

理查德米勒一向也以创新材质闻 名,所采用的种种高度耐刮同时极为轻量的材质都经过反复测试和打磨,打造出许多好看实用的男士复杂腕表和女士高级珠宝复杂腕表。像NTPT碳纤维为理查德米勒男士腕表特有的材质,不仅为机芯提供最佳保护,还赋予腕表独特的美感。如今,理查德米勒也将NT PT碳纤维以镶钻的全新方式呈献在属于女士的RM 07-01和RM 037腕表上。这两款全新的女士自动上链腕表,兼具极致纯美的钻石光芒与NT PT碳纤维独有的亚光雕塑质感。

NTPT碳纤维材质镶钻是理查德米勒品牌的全新尝试。金属材质可让工匠们用传统工具来制作固定钻石的金属爪,而NT PT碳纤维不同,它的硬度和抗划特性必须使用配备钻石磨具的专用数控机床,方可完成镶嵌相关工序。全手工抛光的红金或白金材质金属爪是单独制作的,依序嵌于表壳上排布细密的直径0.25毫米小孔,从而将250颗至臻美钻牢牢固定在RM 037腕表上,诠释品牌高超工艺。

理查德米勒说:“我们的女士腕表不论在外镶嵌了多少珠宝,内在仍非常技术性,这是我喜欢的。这样的女士腕表就像古典车,在婀娜的造型下隐藏的是技术、动力,以及精准性。这不仅是我对完美女性腕表的概念,也是我对完美女性的定义。”

Mar­got Rob­bie

RM 07-01 Gem Set Car­bon TPT

RM 51-02 Di­a­mond Twis­ter

Michelle Yeoh

RM 037 Gem Set Car­bon TPT

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