When Fash­ion Meets Art强强双赢

As more fash­ion la­bels join hands with artists, peo­ple can now own wear­able mas­ter­pieces — and learn a bit about art his­tory at the same time法国时尚品牌路易威登与艺术家杰夫·昆斯将史上大师名作“搬”上手提袋;英国时尚精品 Burberry 向已故雕塑大师Henry Moore取经。艺术与时尚跨界,强强双赢。

ZbBZ (Singapore) - - CONTENT - Louis Vuit­ton And Jeff Koons TEXT NG SIANG PING / 黄向京

Renowned con­tem­po­rary artists Stephen Sprouse, Takashi Mu­rakami and Yayoi Kusama all share one thing in com­mon: They have all worked with Louis Vuit­ton.

For its lat­est artist col­lab­o­ra­tion, the French mai­son picked Amer­i­can Jeff Koons, best known for work­ing with pop cul­ture sub­jects.

Koons re­pro­duced five mas­ter­pieces, in­clud­ing Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona Lisa and Vin­cent van Gogh’s Wheat Field With Cy­presses, on clas­sic Louis Vuit­ton bags such as the Speedy and Nev­er­full. The im­ages are based on Koons’ 2015 Gaz­ing Ball se­ries, com­pris­ing large-scale hand-painted re­pro­duc­tions of works by the old mas­ters.

He pre­vi­ously col­lab­o­rated with fast-fash­ion re­tailer H&M on a lim­ited-edi­tion hand­bag that re­tailed for about US$50 apiece. This time, the Louis Vuit­ton bags cost as much as US$4,000 each, in what he de­scribes as “a con­tin­u­a­tion of ef­forts to erase the class dis­tinc­tion be­tween pure art and the old mas­ters”.

Burberry And Henry Moore

Iconic Bri­tish lux­ury la­bel Burberry paid trib­ute to pre-em­i­nent Bri­tish artist Henry Moore ear­lier this year with a col­lec­tion at Lon­don Fash­ion Week in­spired by his ab­strac­tions of the hu­man body.

Christo­pher Bai­ley, Burberry’s pres­i­dent and chief cre­ative of­fi­cer, said he has been deeply in­flu­enced by the late sculp­tor, whose works typ­i­cally de­pict mother-and-child or re­clin­ing fig­ures.

Both Bai­ley and Moore hail from York­shire county. Moore was, in fact, born in Castle­ford, the town where Burberry’s her­itage trench coats are pro­duced.

Made from a di­verse ar­ray of ma­te­ri­als in­clud­ing feath­ers, crys­tals, leather and even wood, Burberry’s lim­ited-edi­tion run of 78 hand­made capes recre­ate the pro­por­tions and forms of Moore’s sculp­tures. The pieces have been ex­hib­ited in Lon­don and an art book, The Cape Reimag­ined, that fea­tures th­ese works is sold on­line.

In con­junc­tion with the run­way show, the Henry Moore Foun­da­tion staged an ex­hi­bi­tion of more than 40 of Moore’s works. The TV ad cam­paign for Burberry’s col­lec­tion for the sea­son was also shot at Moore’s stu­dio and gar­den in Hert­ford­shire.

Bu­ga­boo By Niark1

Bu­ga­boo might not be a fash­ion brand, but it sure has a rep­u­ta­tion for push­ing out fash­ion­able strollers.

The Dutch com­pany be­gan re­leas­ing spe­cial edi­tions of its prams in 2003. Bar­ber Eb­binge, the de­signer in charge of spe­cial col­lec­tions at Bu­ga­boo, came across the work of Bas Kosters when the com­pany asked the Dutch Fash­ion Foun­da­tion for the year’s best grad­u­a­tion port­fo­lios.

They put him in charge of the Bu­ga­boo Cameleon pram and the re­sult was a re­mark­able suc­cess. The stroller soon made its way to high­end stores, fash­ion mag­a­zines and even art fes­ti­vals, and a string of high-pro­file col­lab­o­ra­tions with top cre­atives of var­i­ous in­dus­tries fol­lowed. Th­ese in­cluded fash­ion heavy­weights such as Marc Ja­cobs and Mis­soni, as well as The Andy Warhol Foun­da­tion for the Vis­ual Arts and Van Gogh Mu­seum.

The brand’s lat­est de­sign part­ner is Se­bastien Fer­aut, the French graphic de­signer, il­lus­tra­tor and artist bet­ter known as Niark1. The 42-year-old, who has worked with the likes of Con­verse, takes his in­spi­ra­tion from il­lus­trated books, punk mu­sic posters and pop­u­lar sur­re­al­ism.

Niark1 has turned his child­hood fas­ci­na­tion with mon­sters into a trade­mark of his works. Mon­sters On The Move, his edgy col­lec­tion for Bu­ga­boo, fea­tures colour­ful crit­ters that pop against con­trast­ing black fab­ric, with match­ing prints on the un­der­side. A gang of cute mon­sters also fea­tures on the blue Breezy Sun Canopy, a sun­shade that can be used dur­ing warmer weather.

路易威登和杰夫昆斯

村上隆、草间弥生、查普曼兄弟......法国时尚品牌路易威登过去合作的当代艺术家赫赫有名。最近,它与美国艺术明星杰夫·昆斯联手,从2015年Gaz­ing Bal­l系列发展出一组印有古典与现代大师画作的手袋和其他小型皮具产品,命名为“大师系列”。

昆斯是继安迪·沃霍尔之后,美国最重要的波普艺术家,善于在当代艺术创作中进行复制挪用,也被市场和社会所熟知,其不锈钢橙色《气球狗》2013年以5840万美元创下在世艺术家最高拍卖纪录。路易威登则是大众熟知的高级时装品牌,双强合作再合情理不过。

昆斯曾和高街时尚H&M制作限量版手袋(售价约50美元),这次路易威登新包包高达4000美元,昆斯视之为“对抹除纯艺术和古典大师阶级之分所做努力的一种延续”。昆斯认为艺术应该不断打破艺术圈陈规的边界,和人们进行对话。

Burber­ry和亨利摩尔

今年正逢英国著名雕塑家亨利·斯宾塞·摩尔逝世40周年,英国时尚精品Burber­ry创意总监、执行长克里斯托弗·贝利从小深受雕塑大师创作影响,以系列作品向以大师致敬。

贝利与摩尔同样来自约克郡,摩尔出生地正是标志性Trench风衣的工坊所在地。贝利说过: “从我有记忆以来就对亨利·摩尔的作品十分着迷,他的作品对我有很重大的影响,在我准备Burberry 2017最新一季作品时,我的脑海不时出 现与亨利·摩尔的对话”。

摩尔追求物体的质感,保留材料的原始美, “不对称空间感”的把握,体现在贝利对时装的形状、质地和细琢的设计细节上,一些图案源自亨利摩尔基金会的档案,包括摩尔在工作室所穿的线条围裙。贝利说过:“我们使用布料来雕塑人体,并且改变比例。”整个系列色彩自然柔和,简约高贵的形象,让雕塑艺术与时尚精品碰撞出花火。

Bu­ga­boo和Niark1

儿童手推车品牌,也和艺术家合作,塑造独一无二形象。1999年成立的荷兰手推车品牌Bu­ga­boo,其设计师巴布尔·艾宾格在荷兰时尚基金会毕业生展上,看中巴思·考司特斯,委托他负责Bu­ga­boo Cameleon儿童推车设计,一举成功。儿童推车成为移动画布,是品牌精神的最好诠释。

Bu­ga­boo后来和各界精英合作,包括安迪·沃霍尔视觉艺术基金会、梵高博物馆等,最新合作对象是法国平面设计师、插画家和艺术家Niark1(原名Se­bastien Fer­aut,42岁)。Niark1以绘本、朋克音乐海报和超现实主义为灵感来源,创作出超现实与迷幻风格融合的插图艺术。

小时候十分喜爱各种小怪兽的Niark1,怪兽图案成为其标志性设计。他与Bu­ga­boo的合作系列主题为“出行的小怪兽”,运用专门订做的布组,采用非常大胆的设计,在纯黑外层面料上,五彩缤纷的小怪兽更显眼,内衬也有与外层面料相匹配的图案,湖蓝色的透气遮阳篷上绘有一群夏日气氛的小怪物。

Louis Vuit­ton col­lab­o­rated with Jeff Koons to re­pro­duce the Mas­ters col­lec­tion, which fea­tures, among oth­ers, Leonardo da Vinci's Mona Lisa. (Photo: Louis Vuit­ton)

配合英国Burber­ry时装秀发布会,亨利摩尔基金会在Mak­ers House展示40多件摩尔雕塑。(Photo: Burberry)

法国艺术家Niark1把作品“出行的小怪兽”印在荷兰儿童手推车Bu­ga­boo遮阳篷上。(Photo: Bu­ga­boo)

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