Some­thing like a Thula Sindi blouse

CityPress - - T# - NEIL PENDOCK with MARLVIN GWESE trend­ing@city­

Wine of the Week: Tokara Di­rec­tor’s Re­serve 2012 Price: R240

The Tokara Di­rec­tor’s Re­serve, se­lected by Marlvin Gwese, the new­est mem­ber of our bril­liant tast­ing panel, is the clas­sic Bordeaux blend of Sau­vi­gnon Blanc and Sémil­lon, un­der­stated and re­fined like a Thula Sindi blouse or a lit­tle black num­ber from Coco Chanel. Its per­fect food pair­ing would be duck con­fit with parsnip purée, brin­jal, sushi rice and a goose­berry sauce that deftly picks up the green­gage (wild plum) flavours from the Sau­vi­gnon Blanc. It’s the kind of dish chef Richard Carstens whips up in the restau­rant at Tokara wine and olive farm in Stel­len­bosch. And the kind of wine that caught Marlvin’s at­ten­tion at our most re­cent Well­sFaber blind tast­ing. The grapes for the Tokara tip­ple come from the farm, although for how much longer Stel­len­bosch will con­tinue to pro­duce qual­ity Sau­vi­gnon Blanc is up for dis­cus­sion as global warm­ing pro­ceeds apace. Tokara al­ready sources the grapes for its sin­gle cul­ti­var Sau­vi­gnon Blanc from El­gin, which is a cou­ple of de­grees cooler. Stel­len­bosch is likely to re­main a great place to show­case wine, even if the grapes are grown in other, cooler, places – or at higher el­e­va­tions. The most ex­treme case be­ing a new icon red called Ao Yun (Chi­nese for “roam­ing above the clouds”), pro­duced by Moët Hen­nessy on the edge of the Ti­betan plateau at an al­ti­tude of 2 600m. At a price of €300 (R5 240) per bot­tle, it’s truly a drink for the well heeled. Gwese is som­me­lier at the Cape Grace, Cape Town

OUR NEW TASTER Marlvin Gwese

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