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Condé Nast House & Garden - - CONCIERGE -

LIS­BON

Buck­ing the trend for glob­al­i­sa­tion, Lis­bon re­mains res­o­lutely Por­tuguese, with its trams and tiled façades. But in­ter­wo­ven with th­ese charms is a new breed of Por­tuguese ho­tel that of­fers im­mer­sion in the soul of the city from an as-yet-un­seen level of au­then­tic lux­ury. at Santa Clara 1728

(8 san­taclara1728.com), six rooms are housed in a skil­ful blend of 18th-cen­tury walls and 21st-cen­tury de­sign, which stands atop one of Lis­bon’s seven hills. The work of ar­chi­tect Manuel aires Ma­teus, this is the fourth prop­erty he has de­signed for owner João ro­drigues, af­ter their ini­tial Casas na areia in Com­porta was cho­sen to rep­re­sent Por­tu­gal at the Venice Biennale in

2010. Fur­ni­ture comes from Carl hansen or aires Ma­teus. Light­ing is by da­vide groppi and beds are from B&B Italia. But best of all are the huge

stone bath­tubs in which you can soak at night while watch­ing the moon dap­ple the dome of the na­tional Pan­theon. or­na­men­tal orig­i­nal stucco work and early 20th-cen­tury blue-and-white tiles dec­o­rate the two royal suites in the

18th-cen­tury Pala­cio Ver­ride (8 ver­ridesc.pt/ex­pe­ri­ence/), which has been painstak­ingly re­stored. The 16 other rooms are clad in silk wall­pa­pers from de gour­nay or raw linens. a 360-de­gree view of the cap­i­tal can be ex­pe­ri­enced from the rooftop, a lit­tle less from the lovely pool be­neath. The ho­tel’s de­tail-driven, per­son­alised ser­vice prom­ises to be the best in the cap­i­tal.

THE ALEN­TEJO

run­ning from one side of Por­tu­gal to the other, the vast alen­tejo is a re­gion of full-bod­ied red wines, olive trees and me­dieval white­washed vil­lages. In coastal Com­porta, the land­scape is all green rice fields and end­less beaches, while the re­gion’s in­te­rior is about dol­mens and oak groves, ru­ral sim­plic­ity and un­ex­pected ar­ti­sanal tal­ent. now

though, just as in Lis­bon, a new level of lux­ury has ar­rived. What started as 14 sim­ple rooms has blos­somed into Sub­lime Com­porta (8 sub­lime

com­porta.pt), a go-to des­ti­na­tion for Por­tu­gal’s cognoscenti and for­eign celebri­ties alike. The ad­di­tion of 10 two-bed­room vil­las with pri­vate pools pro­vides the ul­ti­mate escape. un­doubt­edly the coun­try’s best her­itage project, São Lourenço do Bar­ro­cal

(8 bar­ro­cal.pt) is a 19th-cen­tury farm bril­liantly con­verted by Por­tuguese ar­chi­tect ed­uardo souto de Moura. White­washed sta­bles and out­build­ings have per­fectly pre­served ex­te­ri­ors, but step in­side and au­then­ti­cally ru­ral lux­ury pre­vails. The six-roomed Casa Az­imute

(8 casa-az­imute.pt) cap­tures the essence of the alen­tejo, de­spite its con­tem­po­rary struc­ture and var­nished ce­ment floors. Lo­cally wo­ven rugs and hand-painted tiles dif­fer in each bed­room, while huge win­dows frame the ad­join­ing white­washed farm­house, and in the dis­tance, be­yond the pool, the walled city of es­tremoz.

the beach lo­ca­tion of sal restau­rant near com­porta

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