There is an embarrassment of riches for the shopper in Portugal, such as the luscious watermelon plates from Bordallo Pinheiro (8 bordallo pinheiro.com). For tiles try Cortiço & Netos (8 corticoenetos.com), who make up mismatched, retro packs. hand-crafted ceramics by Catia Pessoa and young artisans can be found at Caulino Ceramics (8 caulino ceramics.com), and a more general line of homewares at A Vida Portuguesa Intendente (8 avidaportuguesa. com). rugs can be found in the Burel Factory (8 burelfactory.com) in Chiado. Its 100 per cent sheep wool rugs and blankets come from the mountains in the north. For fine linens and cottons, try Paris em Lisboa (8 parisem lisboa.pt), behind a beautiful art nouveau façade. The recently opened Claus Porto (8 clausporto.com) shop is a must for its soaps, now accompanied by a new scent launched with Lyn harris.
Traditionally striped alentejano rugs, still made by hand loom, are best found at Mizette (8 mizzete.pt) in Monsaraz. In Comporta, Mercearia Gomes is a family grocery like no other, offering everything from regional foodie specialities to wicker baskets, while at nearby Lavanda, find espadrilles, pottery and boho-chic clothing. But all of alentejo brims with small artisanal shops and ateliers. every town has its craft, from rugs to candied plums, and in-between the towns, olive groves yield an intense fruity oil and vines deliver famously full-bodied reds.