THERE’S MORE TO MEXICO CITY THAN TACOS AND TEQUILA
former House & Garden staffer Tracy Lynn chemaly called Mexico city home for four months this year. sharing her insider tips, she shows us that there’s more to the city than tacos and tequila.
FEAST ON HERITAGE
Treat yourself to the two Mexico city restaurants in The World’s 50 Best. Quintonil (8 quintonil.com) is 11th and Pujol (8 pujol.com.mx) is 13th, and rightly so. Their modern take on local methods and ingredients has people scrambling for a table, located in the Polanco district. Luckily, in this country whose cuisine has been designated by unesco as an Intangible cultural heritage, outstanding flavour is accessible on every street corner.
although there’s often a queue on the corner of alfonso reyes and avenida Tamaulipas, La esquina de chilaquil’s umbrella-donning stand deserves morning patience, serving chilaquiles with a difference. This traditional breakfast of salsa-drenched totopos (fried tortilla chips) is usually topped with shredded chicken or fried egg and eaten with a knife and fork, but here it comes in a bun, with a breaded, fried chicken breast, making it all the more indulgent. To wash it down, café curado serves Impetus coffee from the Veracruz region. Watch as co-owner carlos olivo preps your V60 pour-over, and then cave in to the temptation of his home-baked orange cheesecake. Want more carbs? down the road from elena reygadas’ award-winning rosetta restaurant is Panadería rosetta
(8 rosetta.com.mx), her hole-in-the-wall treasure trove of fresh breads and pastries. and cult churro cafe el Moro (8 elmoro.
mx) will curb any resilient sugar cravings, as will Vicoca dulce’s flan de cajeta (caramel), available in the coyoacán market.
For meat-eaters who are not faint of heart, Los cocuyos’ tacos will have you discovering the real meaning of nose-totail. seafood-lovers will prefer ostionería Puerto es con dido(8os ti oneria- puerto es con dido. negocio.site)i nM erc ad o granada, where it’s tough to choose. More elegant occasions call for antigua hacienda de Tlalpan (8 aht.mx). The gardens of this 1837 hacienda-turned-restaurant are filled with peacocks and the menu is replete with local specialities. start with one of its famous soups and end with a crêpe suzette, flambéed in front of you.
DRINK AND DANCE
contrary to popular belief, tequila isn’t the only drink of choice. Mezcal, made from the agave plant, has become Mexico’s craft tipple, often served with
chapulines (grasshoppers) and orange wedges sprinkled with chilli salt. Bósforo serves this spirit from a variety of producers around the country. at Xaman Bar, savour a cocktail while you enjoy the shelves of curiosities that pay homage to plant life and pre-hispanic ritual. enjoy a drink at old cantina-style bar salón ríos before heading upstairs to Babalú for salsa and bachata lessons. a live band and latino djs play later in the evenings. If alternative tunes are more your thing,
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