Condé Nast House & Garden - - TRAVEL -

for­mer House & Gar­den staffer Tracy Lynn che­maly called Mex­ico city home for four months this year. shar­ing her in­sider tips, she shows us that there’s more to the city than tacos and tequila.


Treat your­self to the two Mex­ico city restau­rants in The World’s 50 Best. Quin­tonil (8 quin­ is 11th and Pu­jol (8 pu­ is 13th, and rightly so. Their mod­ern take on lo­cal meth­ods and in­gre­di­ents has peo­ple scram­bling for a ta­ble, lo­cated in the Polanco dis­trict. Luck­ily, in this coun­try whose cui­sine has been des­ig­nated by un­esco as an In­tan­gi­ble cul­tural her­itage, out­stand­ing flavour is ac­ces­si­ble on ev­ery street corner.

although there’s of­ten a queue on the corner of al­fonso reyes and avenida Ta­mauli­pas, La es­quina de chi­laquil’s um­brella-don­ning stand de­serves morn­ing pa­tience, serving chi­laquiles with a dif­fer­ence. This tra­di­tional break­fast of salsa-drenched to­to­pos (fried tor­tilla chips) is usu­ally topped with shred­ded chicken or fried egg and eaten with a knife and fork, but here it comes in a bun, with a breaded, fried chicken breast, mak­ing it all the more in­dul­gent. To wash it down, café cu­rado serves Im­pe­tus cof­fee from the Ver­acruz re­gion. Watch as co-owner car­los olivo preps your V60 pour-over, and then cave in to the temp­ta­tion of his home-baked or­ange cheesecake. Want more carbs? down the road from elena rey­gadas’ award-win­ning rosetta restau­rant is Panadería rosetta

(8, her hole-in-the-wall trea­sure trove of fresh breads and pas­tries. and cult churro cafe el Moro (8 el­moro.

mx) will curb any re­silient sugar crav­ings, as will Vic­oca dulce’s flan de ca­jeta (caramel), avail­able in the coyoacán mar­ket.

For meat-eaters who are not faint of heart, Los cocuyos’ tacos will have you dis­cov­er­ing the real mean­ing of nose-to­tail. seafood-lovers will pre­fer os­tion­ería Puerto es con dido(8os ti one­ria- puerto es con dido. nM erc ad o granada, where it’s tough to choose. More el­e­gant oc­ca­sions call for an­tigua ha­cienda de Tlal­pan (8 The gar­dens of this 1837 ha­cienda-turned-restau­rant are filled with pea­cocks and the menu is re­plete with lo­cal spe­cial­i­ties. start with one of its fa­mous soups and end with a crêpe suzette, flam­béed in front of you.


con­trary to pop­u­lar be­lief, tequila isn’t the only drink of choice. Mez­cal, made from the agave plant, has be­come Mex­ico’s craft tip­ple, of­ten served with

cha­pu­lines (grasshop­pers) and or­ange wedges sprin­kled with chilli salt. Bós­foro serves this spirit from a va­ri­ety of pro­duc­ers around the coun­try. at Xa­man Bar, savour a cock­tail while you en­joy the shelves of cu­riosi­ties that pay homage to plant life and pre-his­panic rit­ual. en­joy a drink at old cantina-style bar salón ríos be­fore head­ing up­stairs to Ba­balú for salsa and bachata lessons. a live band and latino djs play later in the evenings. If al­ter­na­tive tunes are more your thing,

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