Few gastronomic experiences are as sensational as choice cuts of freerange Dorper sizzling over glowing coals: Karoo lamb, offered up for sacrifice that we may feast on its loins. Droolworthy. Given that, it’s almost blasphemous to anoint such tender bits with anything other than the finest wines your budget will allow. There are some classic pairings for all ages of sheep – exclusively red and mostly of the Bordeaux blend variety – but it’s a versatile protein, so ‘classic’ is a blurry line. And when it comes to expertly grilled chops, burnished brown on the outside, the rule book is pretty useless.