Turn off the N2 in the Eastern Cape to meet four of Jeffreys Bay’s charming neighbours
Jeffreys Bay may be one of the betterknown Eastern Cape coastal towns thanks to its spectacular surfing spots, but we were interested to find out more about its neighbouring towns, so we got to know some of the residents of Cape St Francis, St Francis Bay
Turning off the N2 in the direction of Jeffreys Bay, you only need to continue along the R330 for a bit to reach Humansdorp and then, on the coast, St Francis Bay, Cape St Francis and Oyster Bay. The people you’ll meet in these four towns are a mix of mainly dairy farmers, surfers, commercial fishermen, commuters, nature lovers and tourists.
During the school holidays this part of the world gets extremely busy. Some people depend on the influx of visitors for their bread and butter, but others don’t care much for it.
Oyster Bay being proposed as a site for a nuclear reactor has caused another conumdrum: although it would be good for job creation and economic growth, the development would also cause irreparable damage to the pristine natural environment. (Apparently this plan has since been vetoed by government.)
For now, diesel fumes emitted by farmers’ bakkies merge harmoniously with the scent of suntan lotion on the easterly wind, and those lucky enough to call this area their permanent home are unanimous about one thing: here, close to nature and far from the buzz of the city, they are living in their own little corner of paradise. >
CAPE ST FRANCIS In tune with nature
Cape St Francis, which is about 40km by road east of South Africa’s surfing capital, Jeffreys Bay, is a beautiful spot that lies snugly between abundant fynbos and the sea, and is home to about 1 000 permanent residents. Seal Point Lighthouse, located on the second-southernmost point of Africa after Cape Agulhas, is the bestknown landmark; from here, a broad, unspoilt stretch of beach extends in the direction of St Francis Bay.
The beautiful landscape – and awesome waves – make this a paradise for surfers and outdoor enthusiasts, as well as down-to-earth souls who want to get as far away from civilisation as possible. The town’s location among a network of nature reserves protects if from any further development. There are no streetlights, shopping centres, or the usual facilities you expect from a town, but there is a café, which is really only open during the holidays.
For the better part of the year, Cape St Francis is a sleeping beauty. He usually only opens up in December, says Jal Rigaard, owner of the café and estate agent at Seal Point Estates. “During the rest of the year we don't have enough foot traffic.”
Almost three-quarters of the properties in town are holiday homes, which stand empty for most of the year. Of course this presents a challenge for local businesses – a coffee shop, bar and Cape St Francis Resort – and they must make hay while the sun shines during the busy times. And what about the other residents? How do they make a living in this hidden oasis?
“Many people work for themselves from home,” says Jal, who was born and grew up here. “Some drive to Jeffreys, others to Humansdorp or St Francis Bay. And property is a major source of income – you won’t believe what houses are rented out for in December.”
The maintenance and sprucing up of houses for the holidays are also big business for the local building industry. You see just as many bakkies roaring through the streets with construction workers on the back as you do those transporting surboards and fishing rods; the screech of band saws and the knocking of hammers is audible above the sound of the waves.
Many locals choose to leave town during peak season – not only to earn some good money from rental income but also to escape the holiday rush. However, most people see the annual crowds as part of life.
“It can get really busy over Christmas in particular,” says Jal. “And although it’s
not for everyone, this is part and parcel of living in such an incredible place, and it’s important for local businesses. We have the place to ourselves for the rest of the year. Our motto is, ‘Keep it small, keep it clean, keep it green.’ That’s what it’s all about here.”
RESIDENTS HAVE THE LUXURY of living in this fynbos cocoon without being cut off from the outside world. The shopping centres and conveniences of St Francis Bay are just a few minutes’ drive away, and Humansdorp has a good primary school and high school.
“We live in a pristine place and everything we need is close at hand,” says Dane Shaw, marketing manager at Cape St Francis Resort, which hosts conferences and weddings throughout the year and can accommodate up to 700 guests. “And it’s safer and quieter than the other towns in the area.” >
Dane says the natural environment is the town’s greatest asset. Even if you don’t surf, there’s plenty to keep you busy. There are a number of walking trails in and around town, as well as active running, tennis and squash clubs.
When it comes to service delivery, the Kouga Municipality does its bit, but community members also jump in to help. They regularly organise beachcleaning sessions and protect the fynbos by removing alien vegetation.
“It’s a tight-knit, proud community,” says Dane. He tells the story of the near-disastrous fire that broke out on the edge of town early in 2016. “It was scary. For four days and nights we stood side by side with the fire department to fight the flames. But we came through it together.” He gazes into the distance for a moment, then smiles. “We don’t have that kind of excitement every day.”
Indeed, it appears that, here, life continues to meander barefoot along the beach according to a different rhythm. And as long as the residents have a say in it, this small, clean and green place will remain exactly that for a long time to come.