DAY 15

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Mbeya, Tan­za­nia (163 km)

At Tun­duma, a few “helpers” will ap­proach you and of­fer their ser­vices. You don’t re­ally need them when you’re ex­it­ing Zam­bia, but on the Tan­za­nian side it’s not a bad idea to em­ploy one. If you de­cide to do so, set a price in ad­vance. A fixer can make your bor­der cross­ing much eas­ier. Once you’re in Tan­za­nia, head for Uten­gule Cof­fee Lodge near Mbeya. High­light: Stock up with some of their ex­cel­lent cof­fee. You can also visit the cof­fee plan­ta­tion. Stay here: Uten­gule Cof­fee Lodge uten­gule.com

DAY 16 –17 Iringa, Tan­za­nia (300 km)

Fol­low the main tar road to Mbeya and on to Makam­bako. Sec­tions of this road are un­der con­struc­tion and the speed limit can be 50 km/h for many kilo­me­tres at a time. Stick to the speed re­stric­tion be­cause traf­fic cops lurk every­where. Even if you drive care­fully you might still get a fine some­where so keep lo­cal cur­rency on you just in case. Pay the fine di­rectly to the of­fi­cer. Take it easy and en­joy the chang­ing land­scape. It’s a tir­ing drive, which is why you’ll spend two nights at Kisolanza Old Farm­house. High­lights: Ex­plore the farm, pay a visit to the nearby Isim­ila Stone Age Site or buy some bil­tong and SA wine at the Cor­don Bleu Farm Shop just down the road. Stay here: Kisolanza Old Farm­house kisolanza.com

DAY 18 –19 Ruaha (168 km)

Ruaha is Tan­za­nia’s big­gest na­tional park, but it’s much qui­eter than the oth­ers be­cause it’s not part of the pop­u­lar sa­fari route in the north. Drive to Iringa (50 km) to fill up then turn west along a sandy gravel road to the park en­trance (118 km). Camp­sites in Tan­za­nian parks aren’t fenced so be­ware of lions and ele­phants. High­light: Game view­ing in Ruaha. Stay here: Ruaha Na­tional Park tan­za­nia­parks.go.tz

DAY 20 Moro­goro, Tan­za­nia (427 km)

Drive back to Iringa and fol­low the tar to­wards Dar es Salaam. Pull off at a safe place to en­joy a view over the Ruaha River where it cuts a gorge through the Udzungwa Mountains. There are sev­eral road­side camps – pull in at one if it gets dark. Avoid night driv­ing at all costs. If you start very early you can make it as far as Moro­goro. You’ll drive through a sec­tion of the pretty Mikumi Na­tional Park where you’ll start to see those clas­sic East African sa­van­nah scenes. If you have time, spend a night in the park. High­light: Just east of Mbuyuni you’ll drive through a mag­nif­i­cent baobab for­est. Stay here: River Val­ley Camp­site (Iringa) river­val­l­ey­camp­sites.com Sim­bamwenni Tented Lodge (Moro­goro) sim­bamwenni@gmail.com Croc­o­dile Camp (Mbuyuni) crocodile­camp.de Mikumi Na­tional Park tan­za­nia­parks.go.tz

DAY 21 – 22 Bag­amoyo, Tan­za­nia (190 km)

Drive through the sisal plan­ta­tions at Moro­goro and onto the coastal plain. At Mlan­dizi, turn off the tar onto a de­cent gravel road to­wards the his­tor­i­cal port town of Bag­amoyo. Bag­amoyo is a good place to rest, do some laun­dry and plan your visit to Zanz­ibar. ( You can also head di­rectly to Dar es Salaam, but the traf­fic can be frus­trat­ing.) High­lights: You’re at the sea! En­joy the swim­ming pool and the good restau­rant at Fire­fly Lodge. Stay here: Fire­fly Lodge fire­fly­bag­amoyo.com

DAY 23 – 25 Stone Town, Zanz­ibar

Leave your ve­hi­cle at Fire­fly Lodge and take a taxi to Dar. (Fire­fly Lodge has a rec­om­mended taxi driver.) From the har­bour there, take the fast ferry to Zanz­ibar. ( The slow one is cheaper but, yes, it’s slow.) You can book tick­ets on­line at aza­m­ma­rine.com. High­lights: Do a day trip to a spice farm, to an old slave cave or go snorkelling. Also spend some time ex­plor­ing Stone Town on foot – there are plenty of mu­se­ums, street markets, restau­rants and curio shops. Stay here: Al Mi­nar Ho­tel

DAY 26

book­ing.com

Bag­amoyo, Tan­za­nia

Re­turn to Dar es Salaam. Ar­range for the same taxi driver to pick you up and take you back to Bag­amoyo. High­light: Repack your car for a change of scenery: You’re head­ing back into the bush! Stay here: Fire­fly Lodge fire­fly­bag­amoyo.com

DAY 27 Usam­bara Mountains, Tan­za­nia (300 km)

Drive to Segera and take the wind­ing gravel road to Amani Na­ture Re­serve in the Usam­bara Mountains. High­lights: Search for black-and-white colobus mon­keys and en­demic birds. Do a guided noc­tur­nal for­est walk to see rare chameleons. Stay here: Emau Hill aman­i­forest­camp.com

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