FROM THE EDITOR
It’s that time of year again. Leaves are coming off trees, heavy cast-iron pots are hauled down from dizzy heights in billowing clouds of dust, the Big green egg is wheeled away for its annual hibernation in the storeroom and there’s a general sense of winter lock-down. Let’s just say that going out is not high up on anybody’s agenda right now. But it should be.
Take the three big restaurant openings in Changing of the (Food) Guard (page 62), where we introduce five young chefs who are changing the way we eat. There’s a common thread to the way they are cooking: there’s an un-fussiness on their plates. and our cover by Cornel Mostert and Cynthia rivera of Mulberry & Prince is a case in point: stracciatella is essentially a deconstructed ball of burrata, but here it’s given centre stage, served simply on smoky bruschetta, the creaminess of the cheese offset by the earthiness of beetroot jus.
As if that’s not inspiration enough, turn to Rising Star (page 20) and read about wunderkind Ben orkin, a 17-yearold, school-going, food-instagramming giant of his time. he photographs food (which, I might add, he makes and bakes himself) on his iPhone in his bedroom while his peers are chasing rugby balls – and girls – around grassy parks.
Yes, longevity is important in the world of food, but so is the tang of the new stuff, which is why we are introducing the Gourmet Restaurant Awards this year (page 74). here, we will be honouring both the establishment and the new guard.
If you absolutely must lock-down this winter, do so in your kitchen and put that newly dusted cast-iron casserole to good use with a slow roast from Rule the Roast (page 50). I’m smitten with the seafood en Brodo featuring a tarragon pesto that has just the right amount of lemony sharpness to balance the rich broth of vermouth, saffron and fennel bulbs.
happy reading. and happy eating – whether you’re staying in or dining out.
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