HOW TO COOK
THIS AUTUMN, LEARN HOW TO JAM, PICKLE, INFUSE, DRY AND FERMENT (IT’S SIMPLE, REALLY) THE END OF SUMMER’S MARKET-FRESH GLORY. WE PROMISE YOU’LL BE SAVOURING THE BOUNTY WELL INTO WINTER
Mastering preserves, pickles and kimchi
Why make your own jam? It’s a simple way to use up any bumper crop of fruit, and it’s a no-brainer DIY gift. But we like it most because it lets us control the level of sweetness in the final product. For peak jamminess, choose fruit that’s at its height but not overly ripe; older fruit has lower acid and less pectin, which yields a runny jam that will bum out any piece of toast.
WHAT WE MEAN WHEN WE SAY…
Jam: Chopped fruit is cooked with sugar to get a chunky, relatively thick result. (To make jelly, the cooked mixture is passed through a jelly bag.) Pectin: It’s what causes jam and jelly to gel. Naturally occurring in lots of fruit, especially grapes, apples, cherries and citrus, you can also buy it in powdered form. Set: How firm (stiff) or soft (spreadable) the preserve is.
Special equipment Two 470ml canning jars or four 230g canning jars with lids
900g raspberries 11/2 cups sugar 1T fresh lemon juice 1/4t rose water
1. Toss the raspberries and sugar in a large, heavy-bottomed pot. Let it sit until the raspberries start to release their juice, 20 to 30 minutes. 2. Cook over a medium heat, stirring occasionally at first and then more often as the mixture thickens (as the sugars concentrate, the jam will be more likely to scorch), until most of the liquid evaporates and the mixture thickens, 30 to 40 minutes. Test the thickness of the cooked mixture (see box on right). 3. Remove from the heat and stir in the lemon juice and rose water. Divide between the jars, cover and chill.
Do ahead Jam can be made 2 months ahead. Keep covered and chilled.
Also try it with Blackberries and orange-blossom water.
Kitchen tip Combine the fruit and sugar a few hours ahead to draw out the liquid so the fruit simmers, not caramelises.
1kg apricots, halved, pitted 2 cups sugar
1/2 cup Riesling
1. Combine the apricots, sugar and Riesling in a large, heavybottomed pot, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Let it sit until the apricots start to release their juice, 20 to 30 minutes. 2. Cook over a medium heat, stirring occasionally at first and then more often as the mixture begins to thicken, until most of the liquid evaporates and the mixture thickens, 30 to 40 minutes. Test thickness (see box on right), divide between the jars, cover and chill.
Also try it with Peaches and dry white wine or plums and red wine.
This raspberry-rose jam will brighten up your toast, yoghurt, scone — you name it