SHEKHAWATI

Marie Claire (South Africa) - - TRAVEL -

Nana Ki Haveli, an af­ford­able se­cret in the for­mer may­oral res­i­dence. Nanaki­haveli.com Niros on MI Road for north­ern spe­cial­i­ties; LMB, 10 Jarai Bazar, for veg­e­tar­ian food and In­dian desserts; In­dian Coffee House on MI Road for an old-fash­ioned

In­dian café ex­pe­ri­ence.

For cos­tume bracelets, any­where along Mani­haron Ka Rasta street. For real jew­ellery, The Gem Palace, MI Road. For printed fab­rics and cloth­ing,

RASA Jaipur. The fort of Am­ber has been beau­ti­fully re­stored; visit the tem­ple of Galta, a few kilo­me­tres away; and stop at the

Siso­dia Rani Gar­dens. Why Shekhawati is no longer classi ed as a Unesco World Her­itage Site is a mys­tery. In this north­east re­gion of Ra­jasthan, dozens of magni cent painted houses are scat­tered through a hand­ful of vil­lages. Al­low your­self three days to fully ap­pre­ci­ate the Indo-Mogul fres­coes, dat­ing back to the mid18th cen­tury. Painted us­ing a tech­nique de­signed to with­stand the desert dust and winds, the fres­coes de­pict the whole In­dian panoply of scenes plus signs of the chang­ing times: drunken sailors, the bridges of Venice, trams and bi­cy­cles. The man­sions were built around two pa­tios, for seg­re­gated liv­ing. Some of them are now ho­tels and oth­ers are be­ing ren­o­vated. To view the most strik­ing ex­am­ples, head for the dis­tricts of Man­dawa, Fateh­pur, Nawal­garh and Dund­lod. Near Man­dawa, the Desert Re­sort con­sists of bun­ga­lows dec­o­rated with tribal mo­tifs ( De­sertre­sort­man­dawa.com); in Nawal­garh, the eco lodge Apani Dhani ( Apanid­hani.com) is a pro­ject of well-known re­storer

Ramesh Jangid. The ex­cel­lent restau­rant at the Khim­sar Fort ho­tel, a for­mer

fortress. Khim­sar.com For jew­ellery, the bou­tique

at the Khim­sar Fort; for hand­crafted pieces, es­pe­cially fab­ric, Mila Mati at Khim­sar. The exquisitely re­stored

man­sion at Fateh­pur.

A Hindu tem­ple in Man­dawa Tra­di­tional In­dian food; Pal­la­dio Bar

Hawa Ma­hal palace in Jaipur

Po­dar Haveli mu­seum

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