Nana Ki Haveli, an affordable secret in the former mayoral residence. Nanakihaveli.com Niros on MI Road for northern specialities; LMB, 10 Jarai Bazar, for vegetarian food and Indian desserts; Indian Coffee House on MI Road for an old-fashioned
Indian café experience.
For costume bracelets, anywhere along Maniharon Ka Rasta street. For real jewellery, The Gem Palace, MI Road. For printed fabrics and clothing,
RASA Jaipur. The fort of Amber has been beautifully restored; visit the temple of Galta, a few kilometres away; and stop at the
Sisodia Rani Gardens. Why Shekhawati is no longer classi ed as a Unesco World Heritage Site is a mystery. In this northeast region of Rajasthan, dozens of magni cent painted houses are scattered through a handful of villages. Allow yourself three days to fully appreciate the Indo-Mogul frescoes, dating back to the mid18th century. Painted using a technique designed to withstand the desert dust and winds, the frescoes depict the whole Indian panoply of scenes plus signs of the changing times: drunken sailors, the bridges of Venice, trams and bicycles. The mansions were built around two patios, for segregated living. Some of them are now hotels and others are being renovated. To view the most striking examples, head for the districts of Mandawa, Fatehpur, Nawalgarh and Dundlod. Near Mandawa, the Desert Resort consists of bungalows decorated with tribal motifs ( Desertresortmandawa.com); in Nawalgarh, the eco lodge Apani Dhani ( Apanidhani.com) is a project of well-known restorer
Ramesh Jangid. The excellent restaurant at the Khimsar Fort hotel, a former
fortress. Khimsar.com For jewellery, the boutique
at the Khimsar Fort; for handcrafted pieces, especially fabric, Mila Mati at Khimsar. The exquisitely restored
mansion at Fatehpur.
A Hindu temple in Mandawa Traditional Indian food; Palladio Bar
Hawa Mahal palace in Jaipur
Podar Haveli museum