I think I’m screaming pretty loudly, but I can’t hear myself over the roaring engine
of restaurants per head of population in North America after New York, and some, if you go off the beaten track, are even comparable. It’s not all smoked meat, bagels and poutine (a French-Canadian speciality of chips and cheese covered in gravy) either, as we nd when we stumble across Grumman ’ 8, a super-hip tacos restaurant in a distressed but stylish warehouse full of guys sporting beards (which are both practical and cool). If you love the chic café culture of France, you’ll feel at home, and there’s no language barrier here. In the summer, street-food vans set up in the Olympic Stadium, and Canada’s cultural capital comes alive with all kinds of dance and fringe festivals. But while I’ve heard great things about that time, for me, Montréal in winter takes some beating. Fairmont The Queen Elizabeth hotel, where John Lennon and Yoko Ono held one of their two bed-ins in 1969, is well placed for exploring the boutiques of the vast Underground City complex, where you barely need to step a foot outside in the chill air. Unless, of course, you want to go snow tubing down Mount Royal or ice skating at Beaver Lake.But that’s been quite enough winter adventures for me – until next year.