S4Part: BA­SIC ELEC­TRON­ICS et­tings

Today, most fish find­ers are user friendly and fine tun­ing your unit can make it even more use­ful. There are many ways to do this.

SA Bass - - >> Sa Bass - >> Ben­nie Wiese*

The best way to cus­tom­ize your unit is to try dif­fer­ent set­tings and dis­plays un­til you get what you want. If you did some­thing you don’t like, or your unit goes crazy, re-set it to the fac­tory (de­fault) set­tings. Read the man­ual and learn how to do it. It will save you hours of frus­tra­tion. (On Garmin units you re­set it through “Sys­tem Setup”).

The fac­tory de­faults on most fish find­ers will give you ad­e­quate per­for­mance. But there are a few things you might want to do to make it bet­ter. 1) The big­gest mis­take we as an­glers make is not to dis­play the bat­tery volt­age, why? All your elec­tron­ics are run­ning from your crank­ing bat­tery. I got my volt­age a alarm set with a very an­noy­ing alarm if the volt­age drops too low. You don don’t want to sit with a win­ning bag an and the out­board doesn’t want to st start. Also the aer­a­tor can’t sup­ply o oxy­gen rich wa­ter to the livewell.w If the alarm goes off you still have the tim time to run theth

out­board­out­boar and charge the bat­tery. (Low volt­age is any­where be­low 12V) 2) I like to dis­play wa­ter depth, live-well tem­per­a­ture and wa­ter tem­per­a­ture in nu­mer­als. You might want to add trip dis­tance and per­haps speed over ground. Any of these over­lays on ei­ther the map, or the sonar page. Re­size and move the dis­play that works the best for you. 3) Start with the fishing trip by set­ting your finder to auto mode. Doesn’t mat­ter what con­di­tions the wa­ter is, even if there is a lot of clut­ter or sus­pended solids around; auto mode will give you nor­mally the best start­ing point. 4) Clut­ter can frus­trate many an­glers. When so, ac­ti­vate your STC (Sen­si­tiv­ity Time Con­trol) which ba­si­cally acts as a short-range fil­ter. This nor­mally will get rid of the jar­gon (un­in­tel­li­gi­ble lan­guage), which is typ­i­cally the ef­fect of air bub­bles close to the sur­face (cre­ated by tur­bu­lence from your boat).The clut­ter is not a bad thing. Some­times it is huge amounts of al­gae or plank­ton that forms the base of the food chain for the bait fish. When there is a big change in sur­face clut­ter it can be the bar­ri­ers be­tween dif­fer­ent wa­ter masses. Where there is food, there will be bass. 5) Some­times you have to man­u­ally ad­just the set­tings and down turn the sen­si­tiv­ity be­cause of too much clut­ter on the screen. Turn the sen­si­tiv­ity all the way down un­til you only see the bot­tom, but bear in mind that turn­ing it down from this point may also do away with weak re­turns cre­ated by small fish, veg­e­ta­tion, and other items. Be care­ful not to over tune the sen­si­tiv­ity. You still want to see faint lines that ap­pear at a con­stant depth. This can be the ther­mo­cline that will form be­tween dif­fer­ent lay­ers of cold and warm wa­ters. On the colour units the

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