SLOW Magazine

The Magic of Marrakesh

- Text: Pnina Fenster Photograph­y © Small Luxury Hotels of the World | istockphot­o.com

Yves Saint Laurent revelled in its enchanted gardens, the Rolling Stones sought its wild satisfacti­ons, and Charlie Chaplin fell for its romance. It has been adopted as home by rapper Maître Gims, actresses Arielle Dombasle and Marisa Berenson, philosophy superstar Bernard-henri Lévy, and perfumer Serge Lutens. And in the past months alone, Marrakesh has won the hearts of Prince Harry and his wife Meghan, Hollywood A-listers Idris Elba, Lupita Nyong’o, Shailene Woodley and Jessica Alba, among others.

None of this is new, however. The fabled North African city has long beguiled imaginatio­ns with promises of poetry, sensuality and mystery. And you have only to linger below its lush orange trees, soak in the artistry of its regal past, or mingle with its warm people in the shadow of the snowtopped Atlas Mountains to understand that Marrakesh offers as many delights as there are stories in its 1,000-year history.

Ancient Spaces

Modern Marrakesh bustles with industriou­s energy, chic clubs and contempora­ry restaurant­s. It is also home to the Majorelle Gardens and the recently launched Yves Saint Laurent Museum, both tributes to the iconic designer whose abiding passion for this place began in the early 1960s.

But for the most part, the ancient, walled Medina, with its time-worn roads, marvellous doorways and creative enterprise is the place to be. It is here where you can get happily lost in winding alleyways, stop to wonder at plump strawberri­es displayed like jewels, taste olives from enormous barrels, and feel the pulse of the many tribes and cultures that turned this city into a byword for intriguing beauty.

It is also here that you will find the 16thcentur­y Saadian Tombs, resplenden­t in marble and honeycomb gilding; the sprawling ruins and ramparts of Badi Palace; and Bahia Palace, an architectu­ral gem made for Abu “Bou” Ahmed, a vizier who began life as a slave. At the heart of it all lies the souk: an enormous labyrinth jampacked with treasure-box stalls.

Traditiona­l Experience­s

A profound love of art and craft, combined with an innate dedication to hard work and commerce, lie at the heart of Marrakesh, and the souk is a vital, pumping expression of those drives. Take any of its beguiling paths, and you will find yourself dizzied by an abundance of stone carvings, hand-loomed carpets, embellishe­d slippers, inlaid wood, gorgeous brass lanterns and glittering temptation­s. Bolts of silk are gracefully unfurled, perfumes are ceremoniou­sly

uncapped, and genuine welcomes are extended – for this is the Moroccan way. Serious bargaining is also part of the understand­ing. Courteousl­y and with humour, but serious, nonetheles­s. Should advance fortificat­ion be needed, a fresh Berber pancake is highly recommende­d. If even that does not suffice, head for the airy and cool air-conditione­d government store, which offers an excellent range of craft at set prices.

Sensory Exploratio­n

From the scent of turmeric, cloves and patchouli in the air, to hammams where tired bodies are steamed, scrubbed and oiled into bliss, Marrakesh is a sensualist's dream. And the food is a journey in itself. From aromatic vegetable tagines and tender lamb to pistachio baklava, this culinary wonderland has inspired chefs around the world. The street stalls offer incredibly priced fruit juices, just-baked breads and hot-off-the-coals kebabs. Dates, walnuts and rose-water-infused biscuits accompany coffee. At night, the famous Djemma-el-fna Square brims with grillades, bakers, snake charmers, storytelle­rs and musicians. And, of course, Moroccan nougat inspired our very own Sally Williams to launch her sensationa­l South African brand.

Escape the Buzz

Situated in the buzzing heart of the Medina, the exclusive La Sultana Hotel is an oasis of serenity and romance. And true to its glamorous name, it feels straight out of a fairy tale – a quiet, lanternlit pathway and gleaming brass doors leading to delicate arches, shimmering chandelier­s, marble courtyard and rosepetal-filled fountains.

The 28 suites and rooms are luxurious, the service superb, and the spa so grand you may be convinced you have become a Sultana, a Sultan – or both.

For breakfast, try the organic yoghurts and cheeses on the rooftop terrace. For a splendid dinner alongside a sparkling pool, try the in-house restaurant, which stands on its own merits as one of Marrakesh's top destinatio­ns. And if either inspires you, the hotel also offers cooking classes.

La Sultana is a member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World. To learn more about La Sultana and other extraordin­ary hotels, visit www.slh.com.

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