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party of 11.

We were setting out to tackle the 50-odd km “Combo Trail” — over four days with our luggage transported from hotel to hotel and only a day-pack to carry — from Wavecrest to Cintsa East on the Transkei’s Wild Coast.

After a pleasant get-together at The Meander Inn in East London one evening, we set off for Wavecrest the following morning in a minibus.

After a two-and-a-half-hour drive (including 36km of dirt road from Butterworth), we arrived at our destination at lunchtime and had time to settle in before a sundowner boat ride up the Nxaxo River.

This was the first highlight of the trail and, as we motored slowly upstream among the mangrove swamps to gain shelter from the wind, we were followed by a noisy flock of trumpeter hornbills with added sightings of giant, pied and half-collared kingfishers and the distant cry of a fish eagle.

As we drifted on the glassy waters with the engine cut and only the sounds of nature to enjoy, civilisation already seemed far away. Wavecrest has a stunning situation at the estuary’s mouth. Before we left the following morning, we saw two crowned cranes on the beach, now, alas, a rarity in the area. DAY ONE: WAVECREST TO TRENNERYS HOTEL (14KM): The first part of the trail is through some coastal forest with indigenous trees such as ironwood, jackalberry, forest mahogany and various fig species. The birdlife includes Narina trogon and Knysna toucan.

After a walk of some 5km, we emerged onto the beach to be greeted by some amiable cattle.

After we’d crossed the Kobonqaba River