BUENOS AIRES ON A BUDGET
It is possible to spend a fabulous week in BA for under R10k. Chris Moss has some tips
First, the bad news: flights. Getting to South America, of course, is something of an odyssey for South Africans. In fact, getting there will cost you roughly as much as the week you spend there. A search on skyscanner.net reveals that the cheapest way to get to Buenos Aires from South Africa is on Chile’s LATAM, which has day flights in June from around R10 000 (via São Paulo). Once you’ve arrived though, you can have a brilliant time at budget prices.
Airport transfers: R290
Between the airport and the glitzy Puerto Madero district, the Manuel Tienda Leon bus (tiendaleon.com) costs 480 pesos return; allow about R85 more for a local taxi to/from the hotel.
Accommodation: R3 800
Six nights in an en-suite double room with bathroom at the centrally located Recoleta Hostel (hirecoleta.com.ar), accredited by Hostelling International, costs AR$6 300.
Public transport for a week: R135
A Subte card, comparable with the Oyster in London, costs AR$25 (about R15) and is available at underground (Subte) stations, at tourist information centres and at many kioskos (holes in the wall and shops selling confectionery and tobacco) throughout the city.
Cards can be charged with credit at all Subte stations, national lottery outlets, and at kioskos with automated terminals. Load the card with AR$200 (R120) and you’ll get more than 20 journeys on a bus, Subte or local train.
Birdwatching and fresh air: Free
Walk off your jet lag at the 350ha Reserva Ecologica Costanera Sur, just east of Puerto Madero.
Bike hire for a day: R210
Che Bikes (chebikes.com) charges AR$350 to ride from Palermo to La Boca, the old port district.
Guided tour R170
A guided tour of the affluent Recoleta neighbourhood, known for Paris-style townhouses, the Colón opera house and the famous cemetery, is free, but tips should be in the region of AR$280. See buenosairesfreewalks.com and bafreetour.com for more information.
Day trip one: R140
The train to Tigre departs from Retiro station on the “Mitre” line every 15 minutes, with a journey time of one hour. Your Subte card covers the trip.
There’s a good naval museum (AR$20 or R12) here and a quirky museum devoted to yerba mate (AR$60 or R36), the bitter green tea Argentines sip whenever the chance arises.
To see the Tigre delta, skip the touristy services and get a return on one of the interisland colectivo services (lacolectivadeldelta.com.ar) to Rio Sarmiento for AR$150 or R90.
Map: Free
These are available at any of the city’s nine Tourist Information kiosks — their addresses can be found at turismo.buenosaires.gob.ar
Cheap eats for a week: R3 600
Avoid the smart listed cafés and head for any old corner for breakfast: you can get a café con leche and three medialunas (sweet croissants) for less than R35; almost all places have free wifi. The asado (barbecue) and parrilla (grill restaurant) are the twin temples of the Argentine religion of cow consumption. A slap-up steak lunch or dinner could easily cost two people R1 200.
But in less trendy areas, such as the corner of Alvarez Thomas and Avenida de los Incas, you’ll find parrillas where you can eat for a fraction of the price. You can also get cheap meals and robust red wine by the litre at neighbourhood social clubs such as Club Eros, Estrella de Maldonado and Villa Malcolm.
Pizzas, takeaway empanadas, milanesa (schnitzel) sandwiches and streetside BBQs are also good options.
See the website of Antigourmet for ideas and a map: antigourmet.com.ar/mapade-bodegones-y-afines.
Day trip two (Sunday only): R180
Catch the No. 55 bus from your hostel to the Feria de Mataderos (country-style fête) on a Sunday to see a bric-a-brac market, live folk music and dancing, and gaucho horsemanship. Have a choripan (sausage sandwich) and a craft beer for lunch, costing about R120. Follow this with some free sightseeing: visit the huge Chacarita cemetery (where legendary tango crooner Carlos Gardel is buried), Palermo park, Plaza San Martín and Villa Crespo with its street art, mapped by Google at streetart.withgoogle.com/en). Of the public art galleries, don’t miss the Museo de Arte Moderno (buenosaires.gob.ar/museoarte moderno; AR$30/R18) and Museo de Arte Contemporaneo (macba.com.ar; AR$70/R42).
Day out in the city: R260
First, go for a swim and sunbathe. Parque Norte (parquenorte.com) is a large pool club open to visitors. In the sweltering summer months, it’s an ideal family hideaway, with three big pools and a shallow one for smaller children.
Loungers and sun-brollies cost extra (adults AR$195/R116).
Food such as burgers, hot dogs and salads, as well as beers and soft drinks, are cheap; budget for around R140. Catch bus no 75 then 45 to get there.
Culture: Free
All activities in the CCK or Centro Cultural Kirchner (cck.gob.ar), including art shows and live music, are free. To collect tickets (two per person), go to the main hall on Sarmiento 151 at noon, between Thurs and Sun.
The cultural centre is in the grand old Post Office and it’s worth doing the free one-and-a-half hour guided tour if your Spanish is up to it.
Sports: R120
Why not watch a no-frills football match? Avoid the likes of Boca Juniors and River Plate and go to the more local Club Atletico Platense to see the “Squids” play other teams in the B-division. Entry from AR$200 (R120).
TOTAL FOR THE WEEK: R8 905 ●
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