RIVIERA RECCE
The coastal drive from Nice to Monaco is just 30km, but its string of charming stops could take days to explore, writes Allison Foat
The French Riviera, synonymous with le good life, is typically upsold as the domain of the rich and famous, but in between the posh ports and mega-yacht marinas lie a slew of unassuming little towns guaranteed to soothe the glitz- intolerant traveller. The disarmingly gorgeous coastline stretches a mere 30km from Nice towards the Italian border, roughly 40 minutes in a straight run. One of the most satisfying ways to explore is on a classic road trip. Nice is the second-largest city in the South of France after Marseilles and its location makes it the ideal base for anyone planning an adventure in either direction.
It’s also a travel trove all on its own and, with so much to discover in the city and Old Town, it’s worth taking the time to immerse yourself here a while, to unpack the personality of the place and ferret out those gems not always listed in the guide books.
A RATHER ENGLISH STROLL
An idle saunter down the famed Promenade des Anglais is mandatory. Built in 1820 by the English aristocracy, who took to vacationing in the South of France in the mid 1800s, the 7km trot spot is a magnet for citizens and visitors alike, the iconic blue chairs beckoning strollers to rest a while with a good book or to gaze out over the hypnotically teal waters of the Baie des Anges and the beach scenes below.
The Vieille Ville (Old Town) is a shady maze of narrow corridors, which offers respite from the heat during the day and, at night, come alive as the bars and cafés fill up with customers tucking into salad Niçoise and other Franco fare. With the Italian influence so strong in the region, this is also where you’ll likely find the best oozy burrata in all of La France.
For those who prefer a fancier feast, there is JAN, the one-Michelin-starred eatery on Rue Lascaris, fronted by celeb chef Jan Hendrik van der Westhuizen, who has curated a sensorial menu with a unique South African twist.
Nice is très easy to navigate on foot and with Google Maps at your fingertips, locating the beautiful public parks, monuments, rooftop bars, galleries, markets, boulevards and museums is a cinch. It is rich in artistic heritage and the Musée Matisse, an Italianate villa, is a must-visit.
The French painter Henri Matisse — who was also, believe it or not, an avid canoeist — was mesmerised by the city’s light, as were other great creatives including Marc Chagall and David Hockney. It continues to captivate many a photographer by its radiance.
Architecturally, the urban offering is eclectic, and includes terracotta rooftops, handsome examples of La Belle Époque, the neo-Gothic Basilica of Notre-Dame de Nice,
the Roman ruins of Cimiez, and the Spinellidesigned Place Garibaldi.
On the more modern front, contemporary design is making waves with imposing buildings such as Sacha Sosno’s La Tete Carrée, an epic sculpted blockhead covered in aluminium mesh that cocoons the administrative offices of the public library next door, both to be found at the end of the Promenade des Arts, where there is plenty to sate a cultural appetite.
PERFECT SEASIDE HAMLET
Ten minutes hence is the fishing village of Villefranche. Tucked between Nice and Cap Ferrat, it is the epitome of a picturesque seaside hamlet, quaint and popping with colour. It’s said to be one of the few towns where everyone knows everyone, and many families are able to trace their ancestry back to 1830.
The best things about Villefranche are its soft, sandy beach, the 14th-century Chapelle de Saint-Pierre with its showy, mystical façade created by one-time resident Jean Cocteau and the eateries that entice passersby onto their verandahs overlooking the harbour, for sundowners and tapas.
FAMOUS NAMES & FAIRY TALES
Leaving Villefranche, the D6098 motorway carves its way along the coast past BeaulieuSur-Mer, flush with some of the world’s most desirable real estate and a showcase of jaw-dropping scenery.
Further along, Èze materialises in all its medieval glory, a tiny town that found favour with Friedrich Nietzsche in 1885 (there is a walking path named after him) and later Walt Disney, who drew inspiration from its fairytale castles.
The main pedestrian street, Rue Principale, winds up to the oldest monument, built in 1306, the Chapelle de la Sainte-Croix, and further up, on a rocky outcrop, the fortress ruins, a succulent garden and unbeatable sweeping views across the Med.
La Turbie follows, another gem built over 2,000 years ago by the Romans and dominated by the 35m-high Trophy of Augustus, which looms over the town, a tribute to the emperor’s victory over the Alpine tribes that once populated the area.
Surrounded by nature, La Turbie is a hikers’ paradise and has been well preserved with light, airy, vaulted passageways linking the old, Provençale homes prettified with window boxes.
La Turbie’s simplicity fades quickly as you steer along the twisty D37 — the same road that Princess Grace drove along that fateful day in 1982 — which snakes down into Monte Carlo in the Principality of Monaco.
The diminutive sovereign state is only half the size of Central Park, and while its haute status is undisputed, there’s far more to it than flashy tax evaders and Teslas.
Beyond the intimidating extravagance are several things to do and see that won’t cost a
centime. Explore “The Rock” of Monaco on the headland above the port, where it’s possible to tour the state apartments of the Palais Princier, Prince Albert’s official residence, watch the Changing of the Guard, and then wander the streets of the picturesque Old Town.
The Monaco Cathedral is the resting place of numerous members of the Grimaldi family, including Princess Grace and Prince Rainier.
In humble contrast, the Sainte-Dévote Chapel offers a few moments of solitude away from all the glitz and grandeur, as does the Rose Garden, Prince Rainier’s memorial to Princess Grace which showcases 8,000 rose bushes in 300 varieties.
After all that, have lunch at tennis star Novak Djokovic’s vegetarian restaurant, Eqvita, which is surprisingly well priced, then head for Larvotto Beach to work on that tan.
LAST STOP BEFORE ITALY
Unbeknown to many, the ultimate finale of the Riviera is Menton, the last stop before Italy and the complete antithesis to its flamboyant neighbour.
Nicknamed the “Pearl of France”, it is known for its citrus and flavourful lemons, and is an easygoing enclave that offers a glimpse into what life on the French Riviera must have been like in days gone by.
It’s low on notoriety, high on authenticity and full of surprises, such as Mirazur, the twoMichelin-starred restaurant, and several artisanal stores and the striking white Jean Cocteau/Séverin Wunderman Collection Museum.
The Menton Music Festival, one of the most prestigious classical and jazz events in France, is in its 69th year and gets under way annually in July and August, with outdoor concerts held on the forecourt of the magnificent Basilica of St Michael the Archangel.