It was a huge part of my life but it wasn’t how I saw my­self. It was a se­cret

The Times (South Africa) - - BOOKS -

and New Yorker mag­a­zine jour­nal­ist kept quiet about his surf­ing side “un­til well into mid­dle age”, know­ing that his years as a surf bum might sit awk­wardly with his writerly am­bi­tions. “Most peo­ple didn’t know I surfed. It

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