Sav­age’s wines make their point

Viti­cul­tur­ist’s five-star prod­ucts are just wait­ing to be un­corked

Weekend Argus (Saturday Edition) - - GOODWINES -

have wreaked havoc to the high­est and youngest semil­lon and sau­vi­gnon vines, a dis­ad­van­tage which Sav­age ac­cepts as the down­side of the ex­per­i­ment.

Near the moun­tain peak he has planted a few sau­vi­gnon vines without sur­vey­ing or soil prepa­ra­tion, to see how they cope. On an­other steep slope semil­lon is planted to a high den­sity sans wires or canopy “in the tra­di­tional style of the Rhone and Moselle”.

The glo­ri­ous views across the south At­lantic from this lofty perch are com­ple­mented by fyn­bos fring­ing the vine­yards on one side, while on the hills to the north an area has been ear marked for a prop­erty de­vel­op­ment.

Back at street level the tast­ing room of­fered warmth and com­fort, couches and arm­chairs grouped around long ta­bles. Here wine­maker Sav­age of­fers hands-on pre­sen­ta­tion of his five-star prod­ucts.

Vis­i­tors could start with the 2009 Stone­haven sau­vi­gnon (R77), a fresh and well-bal­anced meld of fruit and ver­dancy and fol­low with the 2008 Cape Point sau­vi­gnon (R117) which is in­tense yet aus­tere, and has been well-de­scribed as “in­cor­po­rat­ing sea, sand and sky into a real sense of place”.

The 09 vin­tage will be bot­tled soon, in­creas­ing the choice of qual­ity whites that will de­velop in bot­tle over the next few years.

Cape Point’s 07 semil­lon, (R115) makes a su­perb com­pan­ion to a wide range of sum­mer food, while the flag­ship Is­liedh 07 (pro­nounced Ilser and cost­ing R170), is an im­pres­sive sau­vi­gnon blanc blended with 22 per­cent semil­lon. Both in­tense and com­plex, it will en­hance fine fare that is fresh and vi­brant: Viet­namese squid with sour green mango salad came to mind as a pos­si­ble match made in gas­tro­nomic heaven.

Sav­age also pro­duces an en­joy­able bar­rel-fer­mented chardon­nay and Scar­bor­ough Red, an un­com­pli­cated blend of cab and shi­raz priced at R48. Tast­ings (from R15 for three wines) can be ac­com­pa­nied by a cheese plat­ter and en­joyed seven days a week.

A few kilo­me­tres fur­ther south, the his­toric and de­light­fully ram­shackle Imhoff farm in Kom­metjie is home to a host of fam­ily-friendly ven­tures run by Rael Abro­mowitz and Gra­ham Isaac­son: th­ese in­clude the Hig­gledy Piggedly farm­yard, a free-range farm shop, the Blue Wa­ter café, a plant nurs­ery and – open­ing to­day – the tiny but well-ap­pointed Old Cape Wine Shop stocked with an in­ter­est­ing and di­verse choice.

A quick peek at the (then) in­com­plete cat­a­logue re­vealed keen prices, such as R33 for Buiten­verwacht­ing’s peren­nial pleaser Buiten Blanc to R66.50 for Spring­field’s beau­ti­ful Wild Yeast chardon­nay.

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