Paint­ing is the best, quick­est makeover op­tion to avoid hor­rors re­lated to retil­ing

Weekend Argus (Saturday Edition) - - PROPERTY -

RETIL­ING is ar­guably one of the most gru­elling parts of any ren­o­va­tion: re­mov­ing the tiles is enough to make most peo­ple run for the hills.

Ren­o­va­tors have their own horror sto­ries of con­tin­u­ous ham­mer­ing and an­gle grind­ing, and the re­sul­tant shards and dust in their to-be-ren­o­vated bath­rooms and kitchens.

Also, retil­ing is un­doubt­edly ex­pen­sive and time-con­sum­ing; apart from the labour costs, re­plac­ing tiles can send any bud­get spi­ralling. So, what to do if you sim­ply don’t have the time, bud­get or in­cli­na­tion to retile your bath­room or kitchen?

Paint it, says Rus­sel Thom­son, brand mar­ket­ing man­ager at Prom­i­nent Paints South Africa, an in­te­grated mem­ber of PPG.

“Yes, paint will do the trick and give you a quick makeover with­out break­ing your back or the bank. To­day’s paint technology and tech­niques are so­phis­ti­cated and com­prise most sur­faces, in­clud­ing tiles. The most ef­fort is re­ally the sur­face prepa­ra­tion and prim­ing, which will in turn en­sure that your newly painted tiles do stand the test of time.”

The first step is choos­ing the paint colour and en­sur­ing that it is steam re­sis­tant and suit­able for ar­eas like kitchens and bath­rooms. The la­bel will clearly in­di­cate what indoor paints can be used for – wa­ter-or oil-based. The key is to read the la­bel prop­erly to en­sure it can han­dle con­di­tions that are less ven­ti­lated and more hu­mid.

Sec­ond, and very im­por­tant, is pre­par­ing the sur­face. En­sure the sur­round­ing area is pro­tected from any dust or paint.

Next, take a de­ter­gent and wash down the tiles to re­move all dust and grease. For the grouted ar­eas use a nail brush or other brush to get right into the joins. If there are any cracked or chipped tiles, these will have to be re­paired or re­placed to achieve the best pos­si­ble re­sult and a uni­form fin­ish.

Once you are sure the tiles are clean, wash them down again with clean wa­ter and let them dry.

Thom­son says the next step is the most im­por­tant as it for ms an in­te­gral part of achiev­ing a high-qual­ity fi­nal prod­uct.

“Prim­ing is crit­i­cal, as it seals, binds and en­sures good in­ter-coat ad­he­sion; so choose your primer ac­cord­ingly. Again, the pack­ag­ing is straight for­ward ; you can choose primer that has been de­signed for tiles or uni­ver­sal ap­pli­ca­tions.

“Don’t cut cor­ners; an in­fe­rior and low-priced prod­uct or primer that you used as part of an ex­te­rior paint job a year ago will put some se­ri­ous cracks in your tile-paint­ing ef­forts. As with any foun­da­tion, your prim­ing ef­forts must be solid. Primer ex­tends the life­time of the paint – it can with­stand el­e­ments such as ris­ing damp as it of­fers bet­ter al­ka­line prop­er­ties.”

He says ap­ply­ing the primer is rel­a­tively straight­for­ward. Once the area is clean and dry use a syn­thetic bris­tle brush and coat the tiled area evenly – smooth ver­ti­cal paint strokes help achieve an even coat.

Once you have coated the en­tire area you will need to leave the primer to dry, nor­mally for sev­eral hours as in­di­cated by the la­bel in­struc­tions. Again, ad­here to the dry­ing time as it will con­trib­ute to the suc­cess of the fi­nal prod­uct.

Af­ter the primer is dry, rub down the en­tire sur­face with fine sand­pa­per and re­move the dust with a lint-free cloth. Now ap­ply the sec­ond coat of primer in the same way, and again rub down with some fine sand­pa­per and clean off with a lint-free cloth.

The next and fi­nal step is the most fun as all the prepa­ra­tion will start show­ing some re­sults and will give you a very real idea of what the fin­ished prod­uct will look like.

Take a nat­u­ral bris­tle brush, or a syn­thetic brush if us­ing a wa­ter-based paint, and ap­ply the paint in much the same way as you did the primer. Once you have cov­ered the en­tire area, leave the paint to dry ac­cord­ing to the man­u­fac­turer’s in­struc­tions.

Af­ter the paint has dried, con­tinue with the sec­ond coat.

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