This once grungy, now up-and-coming nabe overflows with hip sips, sups, and shops. Start at Plaza Luna and take Corredera Baja de San Pablo (CBSP) for a caffeine fix at #12 Maricastaña (see Coffee). Next door at #10, Librería Italiana / 523 2126 / has bella books and bites, then cross to find at #17 Kikekeller / 522 8767 / a retro décor trove that becomes a bar at night. At the intersection with Puebla you’ll see the church of San Antonio de los Alemanes, a replica of Bernini’s Quirinale. Continue on CBSP and left into Pez for vintage vixen La Modethêque at #1 / 010 8718, with more pre-loved threads further at #16 Kinda Kinks / 017 7704. Oh look, it’s wine o’clock, so take a tipple at #27 1862 Dry Bar / 522 5547 / or make yourself at home with a gimlet and a leather club chair at old-fashioned gent’s den Adam & Van Eekelen at #36 / 63 346 3272.