Sundays crawl with tourists and the thievin’ rascals who love ’em; weekdays are saner. Cab it or take the metro to La Latina and walk a few steps down Maldonadas to Plaza de Cascorro. On the corner is Bar Cruz / 366 3738 / for una caña; then swan down the right hand side of the leafy hill along Ribera de Curtidores to Nuevas Galerías on your right at #12, a two-storey courtyard housing a treasure stash of antiques and objets. Exit the way you came, cross the street and head down to Galerías Piquer on the left at #29. Walk through the courtyard and up the left staircase to find Siglo 20 / 530 4540 / for some snazzy décor. Scoot along the balcony to Circa 1900 / 467 1426 / for yet more stylish pieces, and then complete the circuit for a charming mix of C.20th contempo and rustic. Skip back down the stairs, and on the opposite side of the courtyard is wonderful La Gazza Ladra at #30 / 670 239 360 / lagazza ladra.net / for creatively restored collectibles, and a few doors down is the rather agreeable antique horde of Rafa Nuñez at #48 / 639 381 914. Exit the way you came and hotfoot it back up the hill, taking a left into Plaza Vara del Rey for retro, 50s Scandinavian pieces at #7 La Recova / 128 3894, then go right into Mira el Río Alta for more antiques and 60s-70s furny at #8 El Ocho / 366 9407 / and #7 Reno / 479 2823. Exit right and turn down Mira el Río Baja to find El Transformista at #16 (see Standout Decor) with Pedro Almodóvar-approved prop pieces to transform a space from drab to fab. At the intersection with Carnero, go right to reach Arganzuela, and enter the chic L.A. Studio on your left at #18 / 365 7566 / for yet more C.20th antiques, followed by Lou & Hernandez at #13 / 366 7324 / for small, decorative vintage pieces. Carry on to meet Toledo, where at Marisqueria La Paloma / #85 / 365 3131 / awaits if you’re peckish, otherwise on your left find Plaza Cebada, with groovy El Viajero at #11 / 366 9064 / for Sunday terraza brunch or rooftop sips with hip cats. From here, you can either walk towards Plaza de la Paja (PP) or Plaza Mayor (PM) (see Activities/Old Madrid Walk). For PP, exit right towards Plaza de San Andrés, along the church to find lively Costanilla de San Andrés with Peruvian La Gorda at #20 / 366 2472, a packed Viva La Vida at #16 / 369 7254 / for organic goodies and a vegetarian buffet (good gracious, in Madrid?), and next door Delic at #14 (see Coffee), full of spunky Latins. For PM, exit El Viajero and take the hairpin right to find Cava Baja and Cava Alta, two little cobbled lanes lined with ancient tabernas and tapas bars. Taberna Matritum is at Cava Alta, 17 (see Tapas), and Casa Lucío is at Cava Baja, 35 (see Rest./Casual). Detour left off Cava Baja to Almendro, where at #4 Helena Rohner / 365 7906 / helenarohner.es / has delicate, minimalist jewellery pieces and porcelain, then backtrack and continue onwards through Puerta Cerrada to find Alpargateria Casa Hernanz at Toledo, 18 / 366 5450 / for quintessential espa-thrills. You must be parched after that wallet workout, but fret not, the end is in sight – exit right and right again into Cuchilleros, then simply scurry all the way up for tapas n’ wine heaven at Mercado de San Miguel (see Activities/Old Madrid Walk), and grand Plaza Mayor, but a stillie’s totter around the corner!