LUXE City Guides - Stockholm - - Gamla Stan -

Stock­holm’s me­dieval city is fab­u­lously pretty and at­mo­spheric, and its an­cient al­leys hide some rare shop­por­tu­ni­ties if you know how to avoid the dread­ful tourist-in­fested western edge streets like Väster­lång­gatan. And now you do… Start at the en­trance to the Royal Ar­moury Livrustkam­maren (see Mu­se­ums). With your back to the en­trance, head right up Slotts­backen to­wards the or­angey build­ing ahead – the cathe­dral Storkyrkan con­tain­ing its splen­did C.15th painted wooden statue of St. Ge­orge and the Dragon. Walk down the right side of the cathe­dral and keep go­ing down Storkyrko­brinken for ace an­tique cop­per on your right at #6 Mö­bel Hans­son / 20 86 91 / mo­bel­hans­ Re­trace a few steps and cross for Brinken An­tik at #1 / 10 18 85 / with olde world jew­ellery and col­lectibles, then zap right into Träng­sund and carry on into the pic­turesque Stor­tor­get square. On your left is the No­bel Mu­seum, but carry on di­rectly down the right side of the square and down Sko­makar­gatan for vin­tage-styled frocks plus (not for sale) taxi­dermy at #5 VIC / 10 00 92. At the cor­ner turn left onto Tyska Brinken and hang a right down Svart­man­gatan. On the right is the cute Tyska Kyrkan Ger­man church, while on the left you’ll find a good, but spenny cuppa cha and cakes at #23 Chaikhana (see Coffee). On you go and carry on down the hill to find the old­est resto in the city in front of you – Den Gyldene Fre­den (see Restau­rants/smart), a reg­u­lar meet­ing place of the Svensk Akademien who join for a nat­ter and a whip through ¡Hola! be­fore dish­ing out the No­bel Prize for Lit­er­a­ture. On, on like the wind, head­ing left along Öster­lång­gatan and on the right at #39 is Gertrud Båge / 20 67 09 / gertrud­ / for hand thrown ce­ram­ics. Next up on your right at #37 is Jo­hannes / 23 37 37 / an ethe­real con­cept shop with wacky vin­tage n’ cute frocks. Drier than a Mor­mon con­ven­tion? Make friends with #14 Bistro Ruby’s / 20 60 15 / grill­ / ex­ten­sive wine list, then cross over for the quirky, if un­for­tu­nately named, nau­ti­cal an­tique spe­cial­ist at #19 Far­tygs­ma­gasinet (see Stand­out Stores) a ver­i­ta­ble Davy Jones’ chest of Nordic nau­ti­cal trea­sure, brass lamps, port­holes, faff and what­not. Now bear left up the lit­tle in­cline onto Köp­man­brinken and at the top you’ll see perf Gal­lic ro­mancer Pastis bistro / 20 20 18 / Carry on along Köp­man­gatan for a bunch of retail ops start­ing at #3 Zedell Konst & An­tik / 21 02 39; fab hand­made pa­pers next door at Ljung­grens / 676 03 83; mod­ern sil­ver at #14 Atelje Mi­nowa / 24 25 18, and funky kiddy threads next door at bou­tique Gooey / 070 788 3771 / gooey­ At #18 Kreuter / 21 03 33 / has a stash of an­tique cop­per pans, cu­rios and bric à brac, while Gallery Nord Am­ber at #20 has… Duh! Well, äl­skling, didn’t you do ter­ri­bly well. You’ve shopped, you’ve seen the sights of the Old Town, and if you sashay along this street you’ll find your­self back where you started at Stor­tor­get square. Ta-dah! Cock­tail time! And don’t for­get that Gamla Stan is the gas­tro hub of Stock­holm with Frantzen (see Rest./fine), The Fly­ing Elk, Djuret and Pubologi (all Re­laxed), plus Tweed and The Cor­ner Club (see Bars for both) all here – so now you can tick din­ing and drink­ing off the list too!

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