Stockholm’s medieval city is fabulously pretty and atmospheric, and its ancient alleys hide some rare shopportunities if you know how to avoid the dreadful tourist-infested western edge streets like Västerlånggatan. And now you do… Start at the entrance to the Royal Armoury Livrustkammaren (see Museums). With your back to the entrance, head right up Slottsbacken towards the orangey building ahead – the cathedral Storkyrkan containing its splendid C.15th painted wooden statue of St. George and the Dragon. Walk down the right side of the cathedral and keep going down Storkyrkobrinken for ace antique copper on your right at #6 Möbel Hansson / 20 86 91 / mobelhansson.se. Retrace a few steps and cross for Brinken Antik at #1 / 10 18 85 / with olde world jewellery and collectibles, then zap right into Trängsund and carry on into the picturesque Stortorget square. On your left is the Nobel Museum, but carry on directly down the right side of the square and down Skomakargatan for vintage-styled frocks plus (not for sale) taxidermy at #5 VIC / 10 00 92. At the corner turn left onto Tyska Brinken and hang a right down Svartmangatan. On the right is the cute Tyska Kyrkan German church, while on the left you’ll find a good, but spenny cuppa cha and cakes at #23 Chaikhana (see Coffee). On you go and carry on down the hill to find the oldest resto in the city in front of you – Den Gyldene Freden (see Restaurants/smart), a regular meeting place of the Svensk Akademien who join for a natter and a whip through ¡Hola! before dishing out the Nobel Prize for Literature. On, on like the wind, heading left along Österlånggatan and on the right at #39 is Gertrud Båge / 20 67 09 / gertrudbage.se / for hand thrown ceramics. Next up on your right at #37 is Johannes / 23 37 37 / an ethereal concept shop with wacky vintage n’ cute frocks. Drier than a Mormon convention? Make friends with #14 Bistro Ruby’s / 20 60 15 / grillruby.com / extensive wine list, then cross over for the quirky, if unfortunately named, nautical antique specialist at #19 Fartygsmagasinet (see Standout Stores) a veritable Davy Jones’ chest of Nordic nautical treasure, brass lamps, portholes, faff and whatnot. Now bear left up the little incline onto Köpmanbrinken and at the top you’ll see perf Gallic romancer Pastis bistro / 20 20 18 / pastis.se. Carry on along Köpmangatan for a bunch of retail ops starting at #3 Zedell Konst & Antik / 21 02 39; fab handmade papers next door at Ljunggrens / 676 03 83; modern silver at #14 Atelje Minowa / 24 25 18, and funky kiddy threads next door at boutique Gooey / 070 788 3771 / gooeybrand.com. At #18 Kreuter / 21 03 33 / has a stash of antique copper pans, curios and bric à brac, while Gallery Nord Amber at #20 has… Duh! Well, älskling, didn’t you do terribly well. You’ve shopped, you’ve seen the sights of the Old Town, and if you sashay along this street you’ll find yourself back where you started at Stortorget square. Ta-dah! Cocktail time! And don’t forget that Gamla Stan is the gastro hub of Stockholm with Frantzen (see Rest./fine), The Flying Elk, Djuret and Pubologi (all Relaxed), plus Tweed and The Corner Club (see Bars for both) all here – so now you can tick dining and drinking off the list too!