Burberry’s lace closes Lon­don men’s fash­ion week

The China Post - - ARTS - BY EDOUARD GUI­HAIRE

Men dressed in lace by Burberry, Christo­pher Kane’s col­or­ful tweeds, and 1980s-style footwear by Jimmy Choo: Lon­don’s men’s fash­ion week bowed out Mon­day with plenty of dar­ing de­signs.

Lace was not just for women at Burberry, where the ma­te­rial leant a ro­man­tic feel to white shirts and fin­ished straight-cut, mid-length coats.

But Christo­pher Bai­ley, the lux­ury Bri­tish brand’s chief cre­ative and chief ex­ec­u­tive of­fi­cer, ad­mit­ted the style is not for ev­ery­one.

Cer­tain men would wear lace, oth­ers not, Bai­ley said, adding that in a fash­ion show there was some­thing for all tastes, and he per­son­ally liked the poetic feel that it brought.

Burberry showed off its spring/ sum­mer 2016 col­lec­tion k at Perk’s Field, next to Kens­ing­ton Palace, the of­fi­cial res­i­dence of His Royal High­ness, Prince Wil­liam, Duke of Cam­bridge and his wife Kate, Duchess of Cam­bridge, giv­ing the oc­ca­sion a gar­den party feel.

Among those on the guest list were ac­tor Sa­muel L. Jack­son and For­mula One driver Lewis Hamil­ton.

Us­ing black, pale grey and even mus­tard tones, Bai­ley has rein­ter­preted the la­bel’s sig­na­ture style.

The Ch­ester­field coats boasted a re­laxed and el­e­gant feel, and bore a lace col­lar.

As for their fa­mous trench coats, they are made from silk and light wool and adorned with mo­tifs.

There were also ideas drawn from the streets, with jog­ging pants in cash­mere, and bomber jack­ets with quilted pan­els.

Just as at Burberry, a re­laxed style that nonethe­less re­spected dress codes was also in ev­i­dence at Jimmy Choo.

The lux­ury shoe­maker pre­sented its new col­lec­tion at the Seymour Leisure Cen­tre in Lon­don, in a sports hall con­verted into a skate­board park for the oc­ca­sion.

The col­lec­tion was a meet­ing be­tween ur­ban and tra­di­tional styles, said San­dra Choi, the brand’s cre­ative di­rec­tor.

The geo­met­ric de­signs and vivid col­ors on the shoes and train­ers were a throw­back to the 1980s and the Mem­phis Group, the post­mod­ern Ital­ian de­sign and ar­chi­tec­ture group.

The more-re­fined Christo­pher Kane showed off his col­lec­tion in his new Lon­don bou­tique, which opened at the start of the year in the plush May­fair dis­trict.

The fash­ion de­signer bor­rows from streetwear with hooded sweat­shirts with col­ored lines, sug­gest­ing an idea of per­pet­ual mo­tion.

The same mo­tifs were used on ac­ces­sories.

He said many of his de­signs were taken from paint­ings, in­clud­ing the tex­tures and ma­te­ri­als.

The Scot has also come up with al­most an en­tire out­fit (coat, jacket, trousers) in tweed, speck­ling the grey ma­te­rial with red, blue, green and yel­low dots to cre­ate a style both clas­sic and trendy at the same time.

The four-day Lon­don Col­lec­tions: Men fash­ion week grew out of the larger wom­enswear event. This was its sev­enth edi­tion, with 77 de­sign­ers on the main pro­gram.

Sharp suits mixed with streetwear through­out. The event opened Fri­day with a show by Top­man, the brother la­bel of high­street brand Top­shop, fea­tur­ing retro track­suits, wide-legged chi­nos and sporty tai­lor­ing.

AP

(Left) Suki Waterhouse poses for pho­tog­ra­phers upon ar­rival at the Burberry Pror­sum menswear Spring Sum­mer fash­ion show in Lon­don on Mon­day, 15 June. (Right) Sa­muel L. Jack­son poses for pho­tog­ra­phers upon ar­rival at the Burberry Pror­sum menswear Spring Sum­mer fash­ion show in Lon­don, Mon­day.

AP

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