Mod­els, not celebrity guests, turn heads in Paris

The China Post - - LIFE GUIDE POST - BY THOMAS ADAM­SON

For­get the celebrity guests; it’s all about the mod­els at this sea­son’s Paris Fash­ion Week. Kendall Jen­ner and Gigi Ha­did dom­i­nated the Elie Saab cat­walk, while icy blonds Doutzen Kroes and Lily Don­ald­son — both in black — caused a stir at Mu­gler.

Here are the high­lights of Satur­day’s spring-sum­mer 2016 shows:

Elie Saab’s Lace, Stripe and Flow­ers

It was a three-course fash­ion feast for Elie Saab, whose ul­tra-fem­i­nine looks fused lace and stripes and, aptly enough, flow­ers in the Tui­leries’ Gar­dens show.

The Le­banese de­signer nor­mally holds his nee­dle steadily in his hand and rarely strays from his bread- and-but­ter va-va-voom looks in pas­tel col­ors.

Satur­day’s ready-to-wear show was an ex­cep­tion to this rule, and saw Saab experiment.

Sil­hou­ettes short and mini or long and sweep­ing were de­liv­ered in ro­man­tic frills of lace — or “im­i­ta­tion lace” which was in fact laser­per­fo­rated leather on top mod­els such as Kendall Jen­ner.

Vivid col­ors such as rose hi­bis­cus, lawn green and azure — as well as black — fused with ’70s silk neck rib­bons for a fem­i­nine flair.

But, over­all, the var­ied 47-piece col­lec­tion was hard to pin down, and not all the looks gelled.

Saab got top marks for some ex­per­i­men­ta­tion in stripes — such as one silk gown; mini at the front with a train at the back. Its lines in red, pale pink and black trans- formed from hor­i­zon­tal to ver­ti­cal as the train swept back with move­ment.

Vivi­enne West­wood’s

Plays On Size

Amer­i­can ac­tress and singer Zendaya led the front row at fash­ion icon Vivi­enne West­wood’s mad-asa-hat­ter jour­ney through Re­nais­sance Venice that played on size and pro­por­tion.

An over­size flo­ral coat and a ruf­fle-rich draped dress per­fectly cap­tured the ro­man­ti­cism of pain­ters’ flour­ishes on a model with tight ringlets.

Else­where in the spring-sum­mer col­lec­tion, the pure hues of the Re­nais­sance could be seen in a com­i­cally gar­gan­tuan coat in Saxe blue that was sus­pended over the head of a model thanks to an in­ner struc- ture on her shoul­ders. The au­di­ence de­lighted. Lozenge pat­terns of a har­le­quin, two-tone shoes and stripy legs pep­pered the show along­side bizarre hats from yes­ter­year — and high­lighted West­wood’s fas­ci­na­tion with the sar­to­rial el­e­ments of his­tor­i­cal clothes mak­ing.

But where would the 74-year-old de­signer — who came of age cre­atively in the punk era — be with­out her retro ref­er­ences?

Two-tone hair, ’80s-style over­size Al Capone suits, a striped drape coat — and even an over­size veil gave pro­ceed­ings a New Ro­man­tics feel.

Mu­gler’s Me­chan­i­cal Flower

A huge me­chan­i­cal flower, (or per­haps a tur­bine), with a CD in the mid­dle tow­ered over the run­way at David Koma’s Mu­gler show.

It por­tended the theme of the in­ter­est­ing col­lec­tion — the stylish woman as an ag­gres­sive, mil­i­taris­tic ma­chine.

It be­gan with vari­a­tions on black and white looks. A jump­suit and sev­eral mini- dresses — which hugged the body with di­ag­o­nal move­ment in ex­ag­ger­ated lapels with con­trast­ing black and white but­tons.

The ag­gres­sion built up nicely as the col­lec­tion pro­gressed. A chain­mail disco-dress gave way to a tight leather mil­i­tary mini-dress, with epaulettes and a tight no-non­sense belt, and then a stylish leather coat­dress with epaulettes in tof­fee.

By the end, the woman turned into a fem­bot in a se­ries of sexy fu­tur­is­tic look­ing mini-dresses with in­ter­lock­ing square pan­els.

AP

A model wears a cre­ation for Vivi­enne West­wood’s spring-sum­mer 2016 readyto-wear fash­ion col­lec­tion, pre­sented dur­ing the Paris Fash­ion Week in Paris, Satur­day, Oct. 3.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Taiwan

© PressReader. All rights reserved.